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Oil Recomendations - Do Your Homework!

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When the engine is run in check the compression (warm bike, 5seconds on the starter or 5 good quick kicks) and write the number down.

At each oil change do the same check using the same tools and method.

When the compression starts to drop off its rebuild time.

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havent done 800 yet - 560 or similar :) Prob just gunna do the lot myself. I haven't yet hit the limiter I just tractor everywhere as Im still being a responsible adult and getting used to the hp from the ag bike :)

Just did a quick check...ktm top end rebuild kit $385 the very first one I saw from UK..its not that expensive anyway once every coupla years...who cares just have fun...I've been riding every weekend for months so I can see this bike getting rebuilds every 12 months if the compression tests say so only... :)

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I would be getting mechanical, and learning yourself, I have dropped, over $3000 on mechanics, since July within 3 rides a week.

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havent done 800 yet - 560 or similar :) Prob just gunna do the lot myself. I haven't yet hit the limiter I just tractor everywhere as Im still being a responsible adult and getting used to the hp from the ag bike :)

I've been riding every weekend for months so I can see this bike getting rebuilds every 12 months if the compression tests say so only... :)

You will probably find you will go years before the compression drops off if you keep the oil clean and don't hit the limiter on each gear change.

Compression testing will tell you if you have rings on the way out or a leaking valve. If you have a differential compression tester it will even tell you what valve is leaking...... But that is getting a little advanced.

You may get an increase in compression from carbon buildup on the top of the piston from taking it too easy :)

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You will probably find you will go years before the compression drops off if you keep the oil clean and don't hit the limiter on each gear change.

Compression testing will tell you if you have rings on the way out or a leaking valve. If you have a differential compression tester it will even tell you what valve is leaking...... But that is getting a little advanced.

You may get an increase in compression from carbon buildup on the top of the piston from taking it too easy :)

Differential com tester below

post-2081-0-86841900-1381359182_thumb.jp

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Yes, I'm not too concerned. I'm just happy to have a real bike, be out and getting fit, not smoking and making heaps new friends! NOt to mention I enjoy the mechanical work which is bloody easy if you have manuals and the right tools... They aren't that complicated.

I used to spend $22 per day on ciggies = $7832 per year on rapidly dying...so I think this sport is cheap (compared to cars/boats/sitting on a couch and dying....etc etc)

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Yes, I'm not too concerned. I'm just happy to have a real bike, be out and getting fit, not smoking and making heaps new friends! NOt to mention I enjoy the mechanical work which is bloody easy if you have manuals and the right tools... They aren't that complicated.

I used to spend $22 per day on ciggies = $7832 per year on rapidly dying...so I think this sport is cheap (compared to cars/boats/etc etc)

I had a relapse....... OFF AGAIN FOR TWO DAYS.......... bloody ciggies

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I had a relapse....... OFF AGAIN FOR TWO DAYS.......... bloody ciggies

Ah come on...if I can do it anyone can....

still fang for a ciggie sometimes and I stopped cold last feb... wont ave one..not even a drag...

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Yep 18 months down the drain..... Get to start all over again..... Bloody ciggies. At least it was only a 2 week relapse. Last one was on Monday....... Back on the bandwagon.

Back on topic.

If you change your oil and do the comp testing I'm pretty sure the lack of abuse you give your machine you will probably never have to do more than valve clearances. The comp testing will tell you if there is more to be done and when..... It will give you piece of mind that you can keep going without pulling the head off.

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Yep 18 months down the drain..... Get to start all over again..... Bloody ciggies. At least it was only a 2 week relapse. Last one was on Monday....... Back on the bandwagon.

Back on topic.

If you change your oil and do the comp testing I'm pretty sure the lack of abuse you give your machine you will probably never have to do more than valve clearances. The comp testing will tell you if there is more to be done and when..... It will give you piece of mind that you can keep going without pulling the head off.

Yep thanks...decent graded weighted spec'd oil :) (don't mention brand), change regularly also increased freq based on the abuse it gets on rides ie. high temps stuck on a hill, revs etc, rev it out sometimes for fun/rid carbon, don't fall off much, don't smoke, and just ride and have fun.

As for ciggies....just know u cant even have 1 drag... just cut it orf..never again...stinks like shit anyway

This may sound stupid...but a trip during the day into peter mac canteen for lunch (I was walking past once and thought I might go support the hospital) will put you off ciggies for life. Another thing I think about it the ciggie execs driving home from peter morris in southbak in the mazeratti's... and they DONT smoke...dirty fa..

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I was just on the piss with an old mate and was stupid................ All it takes........... Back to square 1............ 3 days no smokes..........

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but your not back to square 1...takes time to get readdicted physically...

and just think of those ciggy executive arseh..s helps me :)

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Changed my oil today and when I used Motorex oil the oil drain plug the magnetic part would pick up a lot of excess bits of metal and now for last three oil changes when using Penrite HPR GAS 10 semi synthetic 10w-50 don't get much of excess bits of metal on the magnetic part, question is this good or bad?

I used Motorex on my KTM530 for three years and never had any problems but with my KTM350 my clutch would slip few times during the ride but since I changed to Penrite no more clutch slipping and the oil drain magnetic part has less excess bits of metal and oil comes out cleaner.

http://4b1ad73d-67b5-435f-a2c5-96181d7f77d4_zps

With Motorex the magnetic part used to be full of excess bits of metal.

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marko - im hoping someone with more technical knowledge than myself sees this but from my understanding this could go either way.

 

a part of the oil's job is to remove the pullutants, i think the motorex was taking this excess metal build up and putting it where it belongs, on the magnet which is what its there for. ive only used motorex (up until last oil change it was a semi-syn) and noticed a bit of metal on this magnet also. i cant comment on the fully syn as ive only just used it for the first time.

 

it would be a similar argument to "my oil comes out cleaner than yours so it must be better". i dont think thats a valid assumption. An oil that comes out dirtier is taking more pullutants with it which would be better for the engine......

 

Again feel free to correct me if im wrong :D

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New engine will have a little "metal" in the oil for the first few changes.

Thats why you do a run in.oil change, to remove.anything left.in there .

Sent from the Phablet now Free

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It will just be small amounts of gearbox metal. No concern at all. Pull a plug out of a diff or gearbox on a car/truck and there will always be metal.

Shit wears.

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Marko,

 

IMO

 

The first few hours of "Run In", yes there is often very little very fine metal shavings, This is one of the Big warnings Especially when buying Chinese Motors of any type, that you do frequent Oil changes in the beginning. after the first few hours of any motor this should not be the case, why would a bike motor be different, simple answer, it wont.

As for people saying that your Oil should darken, should look dirty etc, this is rubbish pure and simple, it means your oil is not standing up to the temps etc your motor is creating.

A good test, now that it should be run in, Drain all the oil out, and flush your entire system with Diesel, not just once, but until it is perfectly clean. Then fill with a better oil, run for appropriate time and change,

If the oil is "considerably" dirtier  I would be very surprised.

 

Now: My disclaimer.

 

I am happy to be proven wrong, IF a motor bike engine is dramatically different to any other engine, and I am only speaking from MY experience and do not pretend to be the wealth of all Knowledge.

 

PS:

What this tread has done though has made me heavily Question, Motorex, as it seams to me, people that use it, think that a bit of metal and dirty oil is ok...

Again i am NO expert, its Just my opinion.

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Ill be going with the 10w-60 from now on. Just wasn't sure if using the slightly thicker semi syn has caused any damage. By the sounds of things because of the regular oil and filter changes and the fact I don't ride it all that hard I shouldn't have any thing to worry about

Biggie,

I was given Mobil1 full synth from the dealer and was told don't waste my money with Motorex. Used that for the first 2 changes. All good but weighing it up, I decided to go with the Motorex 10/50 from now on. $20 difference for peace of mind. On the third change (with Mobil 1) oil was clean and the screen was clean also. I always clean the screen and replace the oil filter.

On a side note, have your valve clearances changed?

DJC

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk - now Free

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i ended up buying the motorex. Ive done 150kms with the 10-60 cross power, another ride and ill dump it and check out the colour, from the viewing glass oil looks quite clean. the last ride I did was 100kms+ and was the fastest pace ive done so will be interesting.

 

valve clearences didnt need any adjustment. my mech told me that the clearences are slightly on the open side but still well within tolorences, and as the close over time no adjustment needed.

 

still starts first kick every time hot or cold, still pulls strong and clean so im pretty confident to say all is happy with my engine so far.

 

ill get them checked again at 1,500 and post up what we find.

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Oil is going to change colour, pure and simple. The only place i get consistently clean oil is running cars on lpg. Plus most are combined gear/engine. Wet clutches will cause discolouration if abused, if doing low speed gnarly tracks where oil temps are always up there will be discolouration. So many variables. Fine tiny pieces of metal in the first few changes are of no concern with any oil. Valves clearances on mine no change after 1550ks, 47hrs, it gets revved

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