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Maxx-MRP

1991 CR250R Project Bike Build

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Hello All ;)

I'm French so please excuse me for my language, I translate with Google.

That's it I find an old CR 250 as in my youth, those who have friends on facebook have already seen some pictures.
the time to reduce the size of the photos, I would start posting here with comments.
see you soon for more

It goes from there

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For suspensions, original it's really not good, ok at the time we drive with, but we're more at the time and with the evolution that have known the suspensions, I can not see myself go back , this fork is not even adjustable in rebound and rear shock not adjustable in hi-compression.
so for the front, I will adapt the fork (either the original KYB PSF 1 or the spring KYB that I mount on my 450 CRF 2013) triple clapms, the front wheel, the braking assembly and the wheel axle.
for the back I will try to find for cheap, an original damper of 250 cr - crf / 450 crf until 2008 and of course it all go into the magic cauldron of MRP to personalize all that according to what I I appreciate and need.

I'm going to quest also a seat-cover Tecnosel (thank you Ove for the link).

 

go on attack with some photos

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we continue with the pictures of this bike and of the dismantling

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very big problem.
the screw is locked in and I can not separate the two parts, I remove the screws from the inside and spraying with oil of sting and I also heat, it does not move a milimeter

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and we attack the opening of the engine

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surprise by depositing the valve box, the cylinder has been prepared (well we'll see later) and for the moment I'm going to mount only the reeds Boyesen (which I have always done on all my 2 times since the beginning, the change is drastic) and then once the restore is finished and I have a little more side, I would mount a Rad Valve.

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not a fart of rust on the stator

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the part that made me very scared considering the number of years that the bike did not ride, it's like new.

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I wondered what it was like to be a rag.

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It's okay

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this too

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not too bad considering the age of the machine

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we return to it, preparation but half, no retouched transfers (diagrames) and no cases notigned either, but hey it is neccessary on a 250 ?? although in 88 on the mine I made the total.

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Have you ever seen a crankshaft seal in such condition? that explains the ton of black fat on the engine and the frame.

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therefore wear of the ring and therefore replacement

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So there sensitive souls abstain, we will proceed to the separation of two casings, the tools of torture are ready

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and in the end the bearings are ok, they have been changed in the course of life of the bike, but I will still replace everything as it is open.

the box is ok, no broken teeth or other suspicious marks, me happy

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here is the rest of the work on the swingarm.
I found myself with the screw of the tension adjustment of the chain of transmission, twisted and blocked by the rust.
Seeing that this part of the swingarm seems to be in 2 separate parts (actually there are three), I decided to get out all to have more ease to deal with the screw in question.

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We see that on the 2 photos below, a kind of epoxy glue.

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to try to spread, to get out the part where there is the thread.

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and after a lot of liters of perspiration, I managed to separate everything, I understand why it was so difficult

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quick and partial cleaning of the room and as the screw is break flush, drilling and then it will tap.

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First sanding and catching impacts, polish later.

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Work on the pipe
So the denting of the pot with compressed air went well, except that at a time -----> air leakage and there I realize that there are cracks where they welded nuts (messed up) to install a protection (carbon, aluminum ... I do not know) so it was necessary to close by welding as I could because I do not know what were soldered nuts, but it m made fireworks, so not simple and the sheet is fine.

I decide anyway to turn these nuts, which took me in the morning, a sanding stroke to see more clearly below the rust and try to remove the solder and solder patches.
Only I can not get rid of these cracks, I weld for the eliminated but once cool I see another that is created next and sanding I see others!
So do you have an idea for me to be, or you know a specialist (can be a cauldron, I do not know) who could redo the two parts of the pot elbow, just cut or it is crack and redo with the sheet intact, if there are welds in + it will be more beautiful, too bad for the original appearance of the Pro Circuit can not be found, if it can save the pot.

I also did a test of blueing on a sanded part to see if I could redo it on the welds as at the origin, it's good it works and it's beautiful

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Now we're going to have a good laugh

I started to see the shock and as I've already said, it will not stay on the bike, say that we rolled with it at the time, the rod and the body with the piston are smaller and end that for a 85 YZ, even the KX 85 with its original shock ultra shitty, is limited bigger (it's an image) in any case as for the fork, out of question that I roll with it, because even if I reach my goal of weight loss for January 2020 I think that for my weight of form I would always be too heavy for the rod cash strength of the receptions of jumps.

So I may be (if I find the parts) recondition and put on sale for anyone looking for an origin of this time.
You will notice that I just cleaned it quickly and especially the color of the oil that must have been the original one 30 years ago.


After cleaning but before dismantling

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Yum, a good virgin oil dating back 30 years w00t.pnglaughing.png

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Passage of oil in the stem, closed.
later, the dampers will release this hole to facilitate the exchange of oil flow between the two chambers.

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Well as the more years go by, the more the parts (even new ones) become rare, I start to take what I need most now to complete the bike and that is or will not be manufactured. Pro Circuit side so it should be the same as the pot is no longer manufactured at PC.

other pieces will arrive, and I will update the photos

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I get the crankcase and the bolt of the sandblasting, I'm happy but I still expected a better job, already it was necessary for me to blow everything to come home, I told you the sand thickness in the Xmax's trunk, the sand goes everywhere even with the casings closed and filled with bubble plastic + all the plugged holes.
But there are still places where there is still paint and I will be forced to sand, for the price announced at the start which quadruple when I returned the takes! so I'm a little angry, in short, it only takes me once.

All the gearbox bearings are ordered, so the needle cage in the one-handed housing, I'm going to break it down and I'll see to extract the one from the water pump / valve

Fork stop, I test with a large nut to take the measurements, so a stop of 8 mm will be ok, so I think rather than change the frame (before painting) rather as I was blown , drill and tap the tee and install a rubber stop 8 mm thick, it must exist and which is inserted between the two to smoothly damp if I put the handlebars abut on a huge scrub or whip

Spacer for the fork tee made (aluminum) remains to find a dust cover washer of 250/450 crf because that of the CR is in 26 and I need 30 inter diameter, not the most complicated, but I did not not duplicate because the XTrig tee that I mounted on the 450 was not delivered with the dust cover at the price of the thing, finally ... I groan today. lol

it's gone for some photos.

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So today I am not without fears tied to the linkage triangle, but having soaked all night in the penetrating, I did not have much trouble.

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Then I decided to attack the two blind bearings, so I test the crumb of bread (because no bread) and it works, and for the other it did not come with the crumb, so I made myself a small makeshift extractor that worked very well after a little heat of the crankcase.

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and I received part of the engine bearings yesterday, so before reassembling the bottom engine, I will take care to align the crankcase with the transfers of the cylinder

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Then disassembly of the parts of the back of frame and extraction of the rusty screws, it cost me the little of the ****-finger laughing.png of the right hand and 1st blow of cleaning of the box with air

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A new series of new parts have arrived today, so I add them to the rest of the pieces in the photo.
For info the plastic frame protections are for sale because between the time I place the order and the receipt of the package this morning, I find the Alu protections, so I do not need it.

I post a picture of the set then in detail

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DT-One air filter

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Boyesen Power Reeds (I have always built this since 1981) waiting to later mount a Rad Valve for the pleasure of the beauty of the parts.

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Braking rear brake pads, no need to present the brand, it bites well and the resistance is not bad either

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Chain skates

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The famous front plate typical, to go with the final look that the bike will have

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kit DP Clutches (delivered in a complete box, smooth disks, filled disks, springs) no need to oil the disks during the assembly, it is one of the specificities of this kit

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Carburetor repair kit

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Pipe springs kit

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Boyesen ignition and clutch cover

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Pro Circuit 304 Silencer

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Bel Ray of course

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Master cylinder + caliper to go with the fork of 450 2013 that I ride on the bike

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Thx ;) Andy

 

Operation ..... swingarm bearings.
With a very simple tool that will only cost you a few $, an M10 threaded rod with two nuts, a few washers and some M12 nuts, the rest you have it in the toolbox or in the drawer of the bench, ie sockets, here one of 19 metric to push the bearing cages, and a socket of 28 on the other side.
I also help myself for the 1st mm of shoot, a KYB tool that is used to replace the rings in the rear shock Seal head.

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Another shipment of new parts including the second-hand rod. I will try not to finguée this one, but in this one we see that there is an aluminum stop inside, so indeed impossible to push the bearing rings.
Thing it was impossible to see the ones I had originally, so it was dusted and she has a small greaser, but where it is placed there is no use, ahah. laughing.png

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The rear wheel spacers are well used

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I wanted to do the electrozincing of my hardware this afternoon, so I prepare the zinc chloride (chloridic acid + zinc tips), so the reaction is done, it smoke foam .. in short it's active .. .
But here, the zinc is not dissolved and the "juice" is black, still a few microbubbles, I'll leave it at night, but I think it's not good, no? it is necessary that the zinc bases if I read well the subjects which I saw while traversing google?

In short, if you can tell me if it's normal or not, if I can use the zinc chloride obtained there on the 2nd picture.
Thank you

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And until the zinc chloride is done, I continue to work a little on the swingarm.
remember the impatcs of the chain relaxed and other traces of falls .. since the photos there, I also begin to do the side which corresponds, one does not see any more traces also. but then I can not sand anymore laughing.png


I should also find someone to make me new string tension chocks in square format (and if possible anodized me in blue I think it looks pretty)

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Before and during
we no longer see the impacts of the chain, which was probably more than relaxed

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Following my adventures at Breaking Bad laughing.png

Zinc Chloride realized, and 1st test on the screws which I took again in nine not being on the result that I was going to have.

and the parts (a part because I still have but seen the note of the bill, will have to heal it before) from Honda home, they ordered me 2 selectors, 80 € the unit, multiply by two it raises the price and the error does not come from me, in short .. I will take it on the positive side that is to say that I would have a spare in case

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and we do not laugh at my drawing, the first one who makes fun, I'm typing it devil.pnglaughing.png

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Go!!!

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first test result
at the base she was rusty

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I improve on the manufacture of zinc chloride, there finally the metal dissolves smile.png

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now stainless steel screws, obviously to avoid the chemical reaction between stainless steel and aluminum, I would mount everything with anti-seize grease.

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the Clutch Basket is dead, I thought I could catch the marks made by the discs, but it had already been done several times if I stick to the little matter that remains in terms of reinforcements and deformation.
So bein as soon as possible, we change Clutch Basket and Inner Hub.
Even if the Inner Hub is catching up, considering the price that it costs I would not be pissed off

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the new rear shock
Coming from a 250 crf 2008, which will take the place of the original one, very frail and without compression quick adjustment (and yes I need all the settings, professional deformation)
it will have to be restored and then it will pass obviously as on all the bikes I've had since 81, by the box preparation

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Then I will sell the original front fork (redone completely or not, of course the price will not be the same) the fork clamps, the front wheel and the caliper assembly and front brake master cylinder, as I replaces everything with a set of 450 crf 2013.

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not too much time to work on the bike these last 2 days (I'm busy with suspensions from my clients)
so I just took care of cleaning the hoses, and disassemble everything on the cylinder for when it will go to nikasil.

and I continue my search for new parts, which makes me cry when I see the price of the baskets on the internet shops

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little work of the evening and like an idiot I forget to make the water pump cover (1 hour of drying and 1 hour of baking)
No it's not Cerakote even if the picture of paint before the oven, lets think, I would love smile.png

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next

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Metrology workshop.
Well, even if I'm going to send my cylinder in Nikasil or in Chemisage (I'm still tattooing, the thorough analysis of the state of the exhaust barrette will fix me on the fate of the cylinder) I still want to know where it is is, just to have a preview of the use of the bike, since the vilo is ok, the bearings too (but that I change) and the state of the gear-box ok, I am curious.

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I started dismantling the rear wheel.
I turned off brake disc and sprocket (you know what? .. it was rusting ... grrrr) then I tried to see if I could unscrew the spokes and there too the rust took the above, so they will end up at the grinder, and for the rim of 18 "and well it will be able to help somebody even with a small" dish "since it will pass in 19"

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You will have to find these parts.
the hoses made of aluminum and the new plugs, did you find plugs of substitution?

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Me do not **** me !!!!
it was necessary to use the great means, there are even rays which once cut away went away like bullets, so it was tense.
In short it remains the hub that will be either sanded, repainted in black, or repainted anodized red (if I put a black rim and I put my wheel before black hub of the 450)
For this rim of origin in very very bad condition, I give it if it can help someone, it has a light flat and a small crack and alumina all over the interior.

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The hub once washed

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someone would have it the compression cap for a shock absorber Showa 250 CRF in better condition than this one
Thank you wink.png

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Stripping hub + deburring of the traces of molding.
There is still some work but it's going to be pretty good.

by hand because having no sandblaster and having been rolled for crankcases, I do not have much choice.

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even if it does not interest many people, I continue to post a little more wink.png

Continued work on the hub between 2 suspension package receptions.
it goes slowly, I took several pictures to try to see better the rendering of smoothing traces of molding

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small package arrived tonight

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I could not not open it to see it smile.png
it reminds me the time, no worries it's good quality

an assortment of photos because according to how is oriented the purpose of tel, it changes the color

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A little job of the morning before going to visit a house with suspension workshop.
So I disabused Mrs. Seat last night, the foam being a little deformed up against the tank because of the one that was badly mounted when I had the bike so I let the night that it takes a little shape and start this morning the implementation of the seat cover, as it's super easy on today's motorcycles with flat stools and flattening quite deformable, as I did not remember it was also boring at the time
So it is not fully stapled, the time that the cover gets in shape and relaxes a little to eliminate all the folds (one that resists in the hollow of the lift on the tank) it will be beautiful on the motorbike smile.png

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Next step, the tank.
"" Will there be Sport "" (but I'm still quiet) :p
all the tricks are good to take wink.png




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I have not been here for some time, I will not put a text on each photo that I will posted below, but I have a little advance, but the bike is far from being reassembled

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