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cruiser

Overheating Husky te300

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Bike seems to overheat a bit too easily. 

A while back I changed to red spring and 1.75 turns of the pv. In general it runs great and does everything I expect it to do.

But after giving it some high rev on band work through the tight stuff or on a long climb. I am now coming out the other end ready to make a cup of tea with the now boiling kettle. Does not necessarily need to be under duress for this to happen.

I have thought go fan,

I have thought go Liquid Intellegence

I have thought change the water impella to metal

I have even thought change the spring back to yellow to see if the PV is the issue.

Would be good to hear your thoughts and what worked for you. 

 

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Hey cruiser these new euro bikes are awesome but I wouldn’t be riding one without a fan at minimum. I’ve a fan on my 501 with liquid intelligence and it never gets hot now even in long sections of slow tight trails. Fans and coolant are cheaper than engines

PS: is yr tune ok ie are you running it a bit lean which could created unwanted heat issues

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Thanks for your response Mick I assume it isnt too lean. running a little bit of spooge out the back with 55:1 oil ratio.

Had a mate ride round all weekend with Liquid intellligence... swears by it. 

Your a second opinion on liquid intelligence. so think I might give it a go.

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Liquid intelligence doesn't address the issue, it just masks it. Even though it's not boiling over doesn't mean it's not overheating, thanks to the higher boiling point, and creating hot spots. I'd be looking into your tuning for the overheating issue, sounds like it could be a little lean but also look into a fan to keep it cooler or cheaper once again is to get a higher pressure cap for the radiator.

At the end of the day you'll find that the amount of boil over is marginal to how much actual loss of fluid you get during a hard ride. So easiest thing to do is just make topping up the radiator with fresh de-ionised water & coolant.

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hearing ya Chop.

This was always my argument too. 

My thoughts were that the liquid intelligence enabled the bike to run hotter but not boil. 

Might look into the tuning setup and see if it needs tweaking.

A fan couldn't hurt to start with.

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I ride a te300. I always install a fan on every bike I own and once it hits 95 degrees, the fan turns on automatically which is great but I also install an override switch just incase the sensor shits it's self. Never had any issues

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What fan do you recommend. And best spot to purchase one.

I assume it is mounted behind the Rad?

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This info is only my opinion and not necessarily anybody elses.

If the engine is in good working order and your wheel speed is above 10km/hr minimum on a climb and it is still getting hot then the engine is jetted to lean on either 1or 2 or possibly all parts of the curcuit. A sustained high hanging idle at the top of a climb is a dead give away for a lean bike. Alot of riders hit the kill button as soon as they hit the top of a hill as they just try and bury the problem and don't want to deal with it. I see this all the time as these bikes are jetted for max economy or minimal spooge and not for performance and engine longetivity. A slight hanging idle that returns to normal idle within a short time is acceptable for enduro riding but for mx,flat track,sand riding there should be no hanging idle at all.
Whats happening here is that the excess mixture in the crankcase (from lugging around or idling on slower trails) is getting used up when the motor is put under stress and the jetting isn't keeping up with the engines needed fuel supply. The combustion chamber is now not getting cooled adequately by enough incoming fuel and this causes the bike to run hot and overheat. More fuel is the proper fix. Adding only a fan will help to keep the engine temp down but it can be a bandaid as the bike is still lean. More fuel,then add a fan is the best solution as it cools the combustion chamber as well as the water jacket around the engine especially when airflow is low.

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Makes perfect sense to me  Cluffie. 

So my next question is do i need to change the jetting for more fuel or is it a case of adjustment in the mixture screw.

I guess it is possible the PV changes have caused the bike to run leaner. 

For the record the idle does not hang on this bike. 

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What fan do you recommend. And best spot to purchase one.
I assume it is mounted behind the Rad?
I run a trail tech fan and that does the job.
Pretty sure most bike shops should be able to get there hands on one and it is mounted behind the radiator
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Cruiser,imo these new motors do run hotter then the older pre 17 motors so fitting a fan is a good idea. It will pay for itself with less stress on you and the gains in engine longetivity. Fans can be an issue with a non kickstarter model or injected bikes if the battery runs flat and a spare battery isn't carried.

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Makes perfect sense to me  Cluffie. 
So my next question is do i need to change the jetting for more fuel or is it a case of adjustment in the mixture screw.
I guess it is possible the PV changes have caused the bike to run leaner. 
For the record the idle does not hang on this bike. 
If the idle doesn't hang then that is good. Without knowing your setup you have i can't really recommend a setting. Going up on the main(depending whats in there?) may help keep the heat down and it won't really effect economy or rideability in a negative way(as this is mainly affected by the needle) so it's worth looking at. A way to look at it is, if it uses more fuel from this, then it needs it.
Proper A/s setting is where it is and not just a case of screwing it in or at at random.It mainly effects the pilot circuit but also very slightly crosses over into the other circuits.
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Remove the thormostate have done this to all my 300 including my sons and his friends 17/300 and there both guns and ride fun tracks on 30 c dayes no boiling , 

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Ok so have investigated my makuni setup. Here are the specs I found

Pilot Jet = 40

Main Jet = 420

Needle 6BFY 43-73 (second clip from top)

Air Screw = 1.75 turns.

Red spring PV 1.75 turn from flush

Does this sound like it needs changing to anyone.

What would you do if your bike was boiling and these were the settings.

Or will the fan make it all better.

 

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Get a fan Cruiser, thats the first thing I get fitted and iv never boiled a bike , with stock coolant.

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I would say the bike would have a r8 and not s4 needle jet (no biggie)from your settings. 2017's had a r8 and the 2018's,2019's have a s4 fitted.

 

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18 minutes ago, cluffie said:
I would say the bike would have a r8 needle jet and a stock non modified #4 slide.
Pilot is pretty rich so that may be returning your idle quickly but the 42 main (which i presume? is actually a 420) is to lean and the needle is borderline lean but it will probably be close with the hotter weather coming on.
Go up to at least a 440 main if you have one. A 430 is as lean as you want to go and will do in summer or a higher altitude if thats all you have.
420 would suit 1500mtrs and 32 plus degrees to give you a very rough example. (don't go by the manual)
Pilot could possibly come down to a 37.5 or even a 35 for the middle of summer but leave that at 40 for now and just set it at 2 to 2.5 turns out. If it developes a lean bog (i doubt it will) when you whack the throttle then go back to your original 1.75 out setting. This will let the needle do it's stuff with less of a bandaid effect to help sort the bike out properly in each circuit.

 

 

 

 

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Thanks Cluffie,

Yes the main jet is 420 and I have jets from there up to 460 So Can go 430 or 440

So will try 440 at 2 - 2.5 turns out.

Do have the pilot jets but will leave that at 40

Cheers

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Thanks Cluffie,
Yes the main jet is 420 and I have jets from there up to 460 So Can go 430 or 440
So will try 440 at 2 - 2.5 turns out.
Do have the pilot jets but will leave that at 40
Cheers
Sounds good. It's good to go one step at a time.
The mikuni needles are hard to find a clean setting without a stutter when going richer on the needle when temperatures change but i have found that if you don't mind a slight stutter or not fully clean running at times they can work well giving very good torque and a smooth transition without wearing you out.

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Got a lot of mankini jets and needles and emulsion tubes if you need. Also would add a fan give me a bell.

Sounds good. It's good to go one step at a time.
The mikuni needles are hard to find a clean setting without a stutter when going richer on the needle when temperatures change but i have found that if you don't mind a slight stutter or not fully clean running at times they can work well giving very good torque and a smooth transition without wearing you out.
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Yeah Can handle a slight stutter. The overheating every ride is not good.

Will ride my local haunt on the weekend. Can then fine tune and tweak the settings.

Will also order a fan.

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Just now, twisti3s said:

Got a lot of mankini jets and needles and emulsion tubes if you need. Also would add a fan give me a bell.

Its all yours twistie grab me a fan please

 

 

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Mine was popping the rad cap and loosing coolant very easily 

raise the front wheel by two bricks and loosen the bleed screw on top of the head till you get coolant and no bubbles

this helped mine 

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Mine was popping the rad cap and loosing coolant very easily 
raise the front wheel by two bricks and loosen the bleed screw on top of the head till you get coolant and no bubbles
this helped mine 
Good point chris, ^this^ as the previous work may not of been done correctly.
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On 11/6/2018 at 6:47 PM, cluffie said:
On 11/6/2018 at 6:43 PM, Ghost Rider said:
Mine was popping the rad cap and loosing coolant very easily 
raise the front wheel by two bricks and loosen the bleed screw on top of the head till you get coolant and no bubbles
this helped mine 

Good point chris, ^this^ as the previous work may not of been done correctly.

Motor has never been apart. Never had a coolant dump. So not much chance of developing an air pocket.

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