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KTM 08 300 Re Build Thread

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Oh man... That is going to look sweet.

Hurry up and get it together.. I wanna see how it all looks. :)

I'm excited for ya man!That thing will be stiffy material!

that is going to be one wicked looking 300. Loving the orange frame and polish!!

Mate that is looking real good keep up the good work.

Thanks a lot guys, great to see people are following and enjoying the build.

I've had a setback though...

The barrel and head have been held in customs, Grrrrrrrrrrr !!!!

:D

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Headset Bearing Removal...

This is a method bought to my attention by Nutty Professor. Pay full credit where it's due as it works a treat.

You'll need:

A drill, 15mm burr bit, heat gun, drift (extension bar) and ice cubes.

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Start by using the burr bit and scallop out three bits at the bottom of the bearing race inside the headstock. This will give some footing for the drift...

db5add83-88f0-8b47.jpg

Once this is done the next step is to use the heat gun to heat the head tube...

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The powder coat will handle the heat, yet be sure to keep the gun moving... After about a minute or so were pretty warm. You can almost see the head tube pull away from the race. It's now we use the ice. Run the ice around the race to cool and contract it...

db5add83-8ad4-6721.jpg

The ice will melt quick and be careful of hot head tube. Now place the drift into one of the ground seats and tap with the knockometer...

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Work around the race till it pops out. Repeat the process on the other side.

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You can see the notches in the RH race. This was the bottom bearing. They take all the load and cop an absolute hiding. Now to remove the rest of the bearing from the steerer tube...

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So I contacted KTM for a replacement unit cost for the head stem bearings as I was in need of a laugh. This model uses the same bearing in both the top and bottom of the headset.

KTM part # 54201081100 unit cost is $72.85 + GST each. $145.70 for bearings

KTM part # 54601084100 unit cost is $39.30 + GST each. Bottom seal.

KTM part # 54601184000 unit cost is $12.15 + GST each. Top seal.

Total replacement cost for OEM stock $197.15 + GST

All Ballz do an aftermarket replacement kit also # 22-1026 unit cost is $42.50 + GST

I visited BSC Motion Technology a bearing supply company and grabbed 2 x NSK Tapered Roller Bearings complete $12.26 + GST each !!!

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I was having a yarn to Nutty P about the idea of only replacing the bottom bearing as they flog out first. Move the top bearing to the bottom position and the fresh bearing into the top position, continuing this rotation for future changes.

He agreed with the theory, so instead of throwing a decent bearing away I'll take this option. Headset rejuvenated for under $20 !!!

:)

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The Hemi Joint replacement 'F Bushing ' arrived today from Synergy Seals.

post-175-0-50107400-1299120243_thumb.jpg $71.95 including postage. This had greater load capacity than the std joint and a lot easier to service.

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is that a F-bush with Z-bolt combo ?

Yes mate, the bolt has a grease nipple. Synergy recommends to install the kit dry, adding 'blue' locktite to the shock clevis thread and torque to 12.5 ft-lb

Maintain with waterproof grease once a month or so. I'm interested in seeing how much difference, if any it will make to the feel of the rear of the bike. The hemi joint was pretty badly corroded and virtually siezed.

Time will tell I guess.

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Keep it going Dave, this is getting exciting.......think we should start calling you "trick".

Thanks Paul, still trying to get my barrel released from customs... Have all the bits and put it all back together for a ride ive booked in for next weekend.

If I pull it off it'll be my greatest trick yet !

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I remember Felroy had some issues with customs....

The dude put the full value of the parts on the forms...

They wanted some money... With a few emails from the dude in the states and Felroy it was finally released without issues.

Customs thought the whole lot of the parts were new . Even though they were sent from Aus only weeks earlier..lol

I'm just wondering though.

Why didnt you take the headstem stuff out before the frame was powdercoated? Was it an afterthought or did ya just forget?

Or was there some other mysterious special reason?

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I remember Felroy had some issues with customs....

The dude put the full value of the parts on the forms...

They wanted some money... With a few emails from the dude in the states and Felroy it was finally released without issues.

Customs thought the whole lot of the parts were new . Even though they were sent from Aus only weeks earlier..lol

I'm just wondering though.

Why didnt you take the headstem stuff out before the frame was powdercoated? Was it an afterthought or did ya just forget?

Or was there some other mysterious special reason?

Hehe, I spoke to Mick the other day about his experience also. The guys in the U.S put the total replacement value of the parts on the customs decleration form for insurance. The gov wants their pound of flesh... I've had to email documentation proving it was mine and that I sent it out of the country. There just doing their job... its a serious business this protecting Australia !

Ah yes the headset, well the reason I didn't remove it before paint was because umm... because its better to... errr...

I forgot too... lol

:)

Quick side note the parts have been released to Australia post as of 12pm... Woo Hoo

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post-175-0-39116700-1299332381_thumb.jpg

With the headset bearings in the freezer to make the install easier I turned to the swingarm. I was remounting both the Bullet Proof Designs swingarm protector and rear disk guard. Both these parts are seriously heavy duty. The swingarm protector is an alloy brace that mounts to the underside of the swingarm to brace the two lugs that hold the bottom chain guide. As the swingarm is cast they are brittle and a PITA to repair if broken.

Mounting requires the drilling and tapping of two holes in the underside of the swingarm, then bolt the brace in place...

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with the brace in place next was the brake hose guide... post-175-0-67440900-1299332955_thumb.jpg

water proof grease in the bearings and were ready to go...

post-175-0-88567800-1299333047_thumb.jpg

stage 1 of the rear end sorted it was back to the front.

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With the bearing races on ice I prepped the head tubes by adding a thin smeer of antisieze around the bearing cups... then it was over to our ol' mate the heat gun to do his thing...

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the races were removed from the ice and virtually fell into place, some light taps with a drift and they were fully seated...

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Races in... next the radiator cross over pipe. This was removed for painting. Blue locktite and a 14mm allen key to torque the tube, its soft alloy so don't go nuts...

post-175-0-57577800-1299333782_thumb.jpg post-175-0-43466800-1299333849_thumb.jpg rad cross over and down tube sorted.

The headtube was now cool enough to grease the bearings, add the rubber seals, top cap and mount for the GPR4 steering damper...

post-175-0-19675600-1299334046_thumb.jpg post-175-0-90694100-1299334081_thumb.jpg post-175-0-09875200-1299334217_thumb.jpg

:)

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Re install of the motor and swingarm...

This was pretty straight forward. I cleaned up the two engine bolts and the swingarm bolt on the wire wheel. The engine sits on two mounts, the bolts slide through and the nuts are captive in the frame...

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blue locktite and never sieze as required... post-175-0-63019100-1299336546_thumb.jpg

It was then back to the front end. Forks, steering damper, top crown, carbon bits, handle bars and controls. The front and rear wheels were put on to keep the weight balanced...

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Tomorrow the sundry items will be installed then onto the electrics, brakes and tires...

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Top end and barrel re assembly.

After having a holdup for gaskets to arrive the top end assembly can begin. This although relatively easy still requires a bit of forward planning and preperation. The hardest part of the job is the instalation of the 'Circlips' or 'Wrist Pins" that secure the piston to the conrod.

There is several different methods some easier than others. This was always part of the job that I hated the most. The clips had a habit of flying across the shed, falling into the case or slipping and putting a screw driver into your finger... not ideal !

There is a tool available from a company called Bux Tools, no more tears in the shed...

c-clipper.jpg

The pdf explaining the tool: c clipper.pdf

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To do the top end start with everything clean and layed out in front. Check all the farts are there and ready to go.

Installing Piston rings:

The piston on a 2T have a small pin inside the groove the rings sit within. 300rebuildpics077.jpg

This stops the rings from moving on the piston. They stay in one position so they dont nip the bore.

The rings have writing on one side, this faces up. To install start with the bottom ring placing the end within the groove against the pin then work the ring around the piston till it snaps into place...

300rebuildpics075.jpg300rebuildpics079.jpg

This process is repeated for the top ring. Then insert the wrist pin to one side of the piston. The c clipper just paid for its self you again !

300rebuildpics080.jpg

The base gasket is placed on the case, I paint everything with a little 2T oil then the piston goes onto the conrod with the little bearing and gudgeon pin and the last wrist pin... use the c clipper again...

NB make sure the piston faces the right way ! the arrow on top of the piston towards the exhaust...

300rebuildpics082.jpg

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The KTM uses O rings on top of the barrel instead of a head gasket, these come with the gasket kit. The battel Install can be a little tricky. Compress the rings with your fingers and slide the barrel down onto the piston. Do Not Twist The Barrel !!! take your time and all will be good. Fit fresh gaskets for both side covers, fit the barrel nuts and tougue down to spec.

300rebuildpics085.jpg

the PV actuator rod pin is reinatalled then seal the side covers up. Install the head and torque the bolts in a cross pattern to spec. Put in a new plug gapped to suit.

to be continued...

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Weren't you gonna go white plastics Motoz?

Looks like one serious headlight there too..:D

Yeah mate white plastics are ordered, they havent arrived so I had to put my old Orange ones on, the headlight is the Trail Tech Extreme Race Light. 100w full H.I.D.

Any progress last weekend Motoz ? or just taking a well deserved breather ?

Yeah mate, I put in about 30hrs in total after work each night last week. I had it finished and started 3am friday morning. Loaded it on the trailed and drove to Mt Cole in Victoria for its debut. I will be updating the build thread and filling in all the gaps this week. Heres a couple of snaps of how it came up...

P1010168.jpgP1010191.jpg

It ran perfectly all weekend and got a bit of a hiding ! Boiled, bashed and thrashed... go the mighty 300 they love the abuse !

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Well done Motoz , that is awesome ,,

Got to luv yu ... Months of a total rebiuld , no expense spared ... and cops a hiding on its first run ... But as you say 300 's would'nt have it any other way .

Fantasic job mate on the build and the thread , its been great veiwing the rebirth..

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Just spent the last half hour reading your posts and following the journey..... Amazing!

The bike looks fantastic.

If I was is your shoes although....it would be parked in the living room beside my couch never to be riden again.

....and beware he who touches it!

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Yeah mate white plastics are ordered, they havent arrived so I had to put my old Orange ones on, the headlight is the Trail Tech Extreme Race Light. 100w full H.I.D.

Yeah mate, I put in about 30hrs in total after work each night last week. I had it finished and started 3am friday morning. Loaded it on the trailed and drove to Mt Cole in Victoria for its debut. I will be updating the build thread and filling in all the gaps this week. Heres a couple of snaps of how it came up...

P1010168.jpgP1010191.jpg

It ran perfectly all weekend and got a bit of a hiding ! Boiled, bashed and thrashed... go the mighty 300 they love the abuse !

i can see a gauge in the swingarm :blink:

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