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KTM 08 300 Re Build Thread

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My 08 300 has notched around 10,000km and aprox 200hrs. With a full Offroad series ahead and some Extreme Enduro events planned I've decided to upgrade the trusty steed.

I'm starting a major overhaul and bringing it back to spec. I'm taking the rest of the year off riding, to recover from little anoying injury's and am going to use the time to do a 'Full Strip Down' and rebuild of the motor, trans, suspension and chassis.

I was planing on an upgrade to a new 300, yet with what I've 'Blinged' the 08 with thus far its not worth it.

The plan: ( subject to change... lol )

Motor: Send barrel/Head PV to Slavens in the U.S for 'Mule Port'

Re build bottom end, wet stator mod

Trans: Replace Clutch pack, springs etc

Suspension: Seals, oil, etc. Polish crowns

Chassis: Powder coat Frame (orange), New bearings, seals etc, New plastics and Graphics. New Seat, Disks, Carbon Bits

Generall tidy up, polish and clean.

Watch this space...

Edited by motoz

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Yep, it's sometimes better to keep what you have than to update the bike. I'd be doing the same in your case too Dave. I also wouldn't bother updating the 530 but keeping it and rebuilding here and there.

Looking forward to your updates.

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good luck mate... you dont do much by halves do you?!?!?!

No mate its all or nothing... lol

Yep, it's sometimes better to keep what you have than to update the bike. I'd be doing the same in your case too Dave. I also wouldn't bother updating the 530 but keeping it and rebuilding here and there.

Looking forward to your updates.

Your right mate, I thought a fair bit about an upgrade. $5000 change over to 2011.

Concidering there have been no real upgrades on the 300 only updates it doesn't seem worth it.

I can put half that budget into the 08 and enhance what I've already built.

The strip down process has begun, all the plastics are removed, suspension and wheel sets diassembled.

Next is to get the motor apart and barrel etc sent of to Jeff in Colorado.

He said he can have it ported, head milled and posted back within three days!

The Slavens 'Mule Port';

"The Mule Port & Polish/Cylinder Decking/Head Mod combination offers a significant boost to the low-end and mid-range torque and horsepower. It’s NOT a minor change that you can barely notice, it’s a major boost. The increased torque and horsepower produces smooth power delivery which makes it much easier to ride, increases traction, and enables using a taller gear in most situations. "

Back to the shed...

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So heres the progress thus far;

With the bike in the shed I went about stripping it down to remove the barrel, head and PV for some U.S lovin...

I had already removed the front end earlier in the week. The front suspension has been sent to Kim Gowan, bit of a wizard round these parts in dialing the bouncy bits.

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With plastics and tank removed I moved on to the sub frame.
When doing a top end on I find it quicker to rather than remove the sub frame, but to lift it so it sits on top of the bike out the way...

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Remove the lower bolts and loosen the upper...

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By removing the hose clamp to the air box and seperating the silencer, you then fold the sub frame up and out of the way...

I then put an old lid off a spray can over the carb to stop any debris getting inside. From there its off with the exhaust...

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With the inlet and exhaust sorted its off to the left and right sides of the barrel.
There's a cover on either side of the barrel that houses the PV. Two of the head nuts are located behind these covers so they need to be removed.

The LHS cover is behind the startor motor. Once removed the barrel nut is visable...

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I usually put a shop cloth in the exhaust port also to stop anything falling inside...

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Back too it...

The RHS side houses the Power Valve actuator rod. The cover needs to be removed and there's a little pin that locks the rod in situe onto the PV cam.

You unhook the clip, then pull it down to remove...

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With the locking pin removed the PV rod simply unclips and can be moved to the side. ( be carefull not to drop anything down into the case )

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With the rest of the PV mechanism staying attached to the barrel, and the rod disconnected the only things left to remove are the barrel nuts.

( Note all the coolant was drained previously, don't forget... lol )

[ATTACH]3581[/ATTACH]

To make it easier to remove the barrel, remove the cross over radiator hoses and lastly the spark plug...

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Now for the removal... gently lift the barrel off the studs, it may require a soft tap with a rubber mallet to loosen the gasket. At this stage I check the position of the piston. You want it at BDC ( bottom dead centre ) if you need to either cycle the kickstarter or click it in gear and slowly turn the rear wheel.

You wan't to remove the barrel smoothly and without twisting, its possible by twisting to snag a ring and scratch the bore...

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The 'wrist' pins are tricky to remove and can go enywhere... Fill the case with clean rags just in case...

[ATTACH]3589[/ATTACH] The piston, gudgeon pin and bearing along with two wrist pins get removed...

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Almost there...

I usually lay everything out on the bench, just to check its all there and nothing went into the case...

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From there its removal of the 'Exhaust Flange Protector' and into the parts wash...

I changed the first piston at 90 hrs, this one has done 100.

The older piston ( on the right ) had some very bad scoring and burning around the exhaust port. The one I just removed had virtually none.

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I don't know why the older piston got so hammered. Either some debris got in through the inlet, or I pushed some grit in through the exhaust port while using the pressure washer???

Alas 5000km later and it seems to have been a one off, the bore is unmarked.

As I've still got some work to do I gave everything a light spray with WD40 and sealed the case in plastic...

[ATTACH]3601[/ATTACH]

To be continued...

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Great write up mate, sure it will help a lot of us out!

Thanks Paul, that was the idea. If you own a 2T long enough you'll have to do a top end at some stage.

I'll use this thread in reverse to workout how to put it all back together... lol

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Well is been a while since I updated the build progress. Not much happened over the xmas / NY break. Now we're full systems go...

The barrel, head and power valve mechanism have been boxed up and shipped off to Colorado for some porting.

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With two weeks up my sleeve I turned to the frame. It has copped a bit of a hiding over the last two years and some of the powder coat is chipping off.

I decided early in the build that it needed re painting. Wanting to change the look of the 300 I opted for 'Orange'. A local powder coater near my work is in charge of this and $100 including sandblasting and prep work wasn't too bad.

the removal of all the wiring, controls, motor and swing arm took aprox 2 hrs;

[ATTACH]4515[/ATTACH]

With the frame in paint, the motor in service I'll turn to the wiring and other parts that have come off the bike. All the connections need to be contact cleaned and re taped as well as bearings and bolts cleaned or replaced...

Now to the wiring...

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to be continued

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Edited by motoz

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Great photos, I envy your technical knowhow, If I tried that I would end up having to buy a new bike & trade in the pallet full of parts that ended up on the floor of my shed LOL

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nice work mate - better you than me!!!

you can do the rmx next!

Thanks mate, next time your in town drop the old girl into Motoz Garage... :confused:

Great photos, I envy your technical knowhow, If I tried that I would end up having to buy a new bike & trade in the pallet full of parts that ended up on the floor of my shed LOL

Its not that hard if you take your time and work methodically. Its a great way to learn your bike so if you have problems on a ride you've got your head around how to get to the part and fix it.

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Dave i think JB is about to do the same.

Piston kit from states at 165 plus postage 40 bucks i think thats not to bad so im in.

No garage or parts washer in JBVille so im off to a mates shed in Mansfield to do the job i think or just send it to MR mechanic then i can blame him later???

Hey why dont they make Big Bore kits for the 300 say 350 360 or 380 or 700 big bore even??? That would make my day....more bottom end then hey!!!

JB

Edited by motoz

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Big bore kit for a 300 WTF????????:cool::D

To much testosterone:D

It's a serious job when your sending parts to the states me thinks;)

I'd have a go at a job like this but would end up forgetting where some of the parts go me thinks:(

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Top report, not being over mechanically skilled, I find these types of reports excellent, keep em coming..

Thanks mate, doing a project like this is a great way to learn about your bike. Then if there is a problem on the trail your more likely to be able to diagnose and fix the problem.

Dave i think JB is about to do the same.

Piston kit from states at 165 plus postage 40 bucks i think thats not to bad so im in.

No garage or parts washer in JBVille so im off to a mates shed in Mansfield to do the job i think or just send it to MR mechanic then i can blame him later???

Hey why dont they make Big Bore kits for the 300 say 350 360 or 380 or 700 big bore even??? That would make my day....more bottom end then hey!!!

JB

If you shop around you can buy a rebuild kit locally for $220 KTM OEM part # 00050000009. The kit contains everything including gaskets and o rings.

Just be sure you order the right piston. They have either a 1 or 2 stamped on the top of the piston on the inlet side.

Piston 1 is 71.925mm and piston 2 is 71.930mm. I believe the size difference was because of variations in barrel castings.

I'm not sure about a big bore kit for the 300! KTM stopped making the 360/380

around 2000.

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I'd have a go at a job like this but would end up forgetting where some of the parts go me thinks:(

Thats why I'm documenting the build... I'll just re read it in reverse to put things back together... lol

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And dont forget to check your reed's too they are often over looked and if the corner's are chipped it will make the bike run poorly. By the way Wiseco piston's work well in KTM 2 stroke's and last longer than stock one's

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Getting the frame ready for paint I thought I should share how to remove the radiator cross over T pipe.

The radiators on the KTM's are attached to a cross over pipe that runs through the frame. In the middle of this is a down pipe that runs down the center of the frame and connects to the thermostat.

This down pipe is threaded and screws into the cross over.

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Inside this down pipe you can see three splines. KTM sell a special tool to lock onto these splines and unscrew the tube. The price of this tool is absurd...

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The tube is aluminium so vice grips will destroy it if you attempted to use them.

The tube is also bonded into the top of the T with locktite.

To remove I gently heated the top of the radiator cross over with a heat gun.

A 14mm Allen Key will fit up the inside of the tube and locate perfectly on the three internal ribs.

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If you're gentle with the heat and tools you'll unscrew the tube with zero damage. Its then a process of removing the cross over to one side of the frame.

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The thread lock can be removed on the wire wheel for re install.

Cross over removed and the frame ready for paint...

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Keep up the good work Dave! When it comes time to do my top end I can just look here, instead of tracking down a workshop manual.

And thanks for the avatar!!

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Fresh out the oven...

A big thanks to ML & MK Powder Coaters in Wingfield

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It's almost an exact match to the factory colour. $120 for bead blasting and paint.

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:)

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