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About detroit892

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  1. Was at a bike shop other day and they also discouraged me from using slime, they said it makes an absolute mess of tire changes and to just carry a a plug kit with me, either on the bike or in the car which i was planing on doing anyway. Geuss its just one of them things, each to there own Most dealers ( not all ) speak from experience and usually give good advice. A plug kit is exactly what i carry. I have had no problems the plugs lasting the life of the tyre either. The fresher they are the better they seal. Around a year ago I ripped a 4" tear in a Dunlop AT81, my second AT81 to get a new AWhole ripped in it. Although a great gripping tyre I won't recommend these tyres for for handfuls of HP over jagged rocks, ( my fault ) they were not designed for that kind of abuse. Even with a huge tear in the tyre I easily rode several klm's back to base without damaging the rim. Try that on tubes and there wouldn't be much left of the tyre and at very least, a marred rim.
  2. In my opinion I wouldn't recommend any sealant as your are potentially causing headaches for yourself in long run. Watch the YouTube video on fitment and follow it methodically until you get the knack for these things. Slime and other similar products are fixes for bad fitment and sealant leftovers will accumulate change after change making it harder to keep clean inside the tyre. I have over 30 changes one specific rim with same Tubliss on it and i'm guessing perhaps over 200 changes in all with Tubliss and I have never had to clean the inside of the rim as it remains spotless. When done correctly of coarse. ( spokes remain clean and rust free as some sealants may also promote rust and or oxidation on aluminium ) Regardless you should adjust or rotate your spokes with every tyre change or periodically to ensure they don't seize with time. ( Tip. Don't over tighten the rim locks, the maximum I would go is around 15nm most of the time not even that especially on the front ) It helps the inner HP tube last longer by eliminating the potential pinch point at the tyre rim lock ) Remember the entire system is a rim lock, only requiring the intended specific rim lock when you have the unfortunate situation of poping the rear HP tube on the trail. This is when you get your spanner out and tighten the rim lock firm to get you home. Hope this helps.
  3. Its good and well getting the extra grip, it is tempting to keep them at low psi all the time. But if your ride is fast paced with roots & square edge rocks and you ride a bigger bike with perhaps a bigger then average gut like me, I would recommend a minimum of 10 psi front & rear. Less than this and I recently put some nice dents and pinched the sidewall of the tyre to a flat. I had around 3-4 psi & hit a little buried square edge rock. If you need to take advantage of the low psi then keep a little hand pump with you as someone else mentioned earlier, to inflate a little stability back into the tyre.
  4. Hi, enduro oriented bike would be better but sometimes our pocket dictates the outcome. No doubt it will do the job, how well will depend on your skill level. Power is better to have more and ride softly then want more and not have it. Its the old saying. First 10 years of my riding was all mx bikes for the bush, and compared to the current offerings they were crap. ( I started in the 80s, shit im showing my age here. ) There are good and bad points in all models, just remember when it comes to 4 stroke mx oil and filters, frequency is most important, than quality. For your kind of riding. The only down side to this type of bike is radiator size and cooling efficiency as they are not design to be bogged down. It will love you whilst your moving and hate you if get stuck revving it up hills. They are a good strong engine if looked after. ( like anything mostly ) Hope this helped cheers.
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