detroit892

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About detroit892

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  1. Tubeless tire sealants

    Was at a bike shop other day and they also discouraged me from using slime, they said it makes an absolute mess of tire changes and to just carry a a plug kit with me, either on the bike or in the car which i was planing on doing anyway. Geuss its just one of them things, each to there own Most dealers ( not all ) speak from experience and usually give good advice. A plug kit is exactly what i carry. I have had no problems the plugs lasting the life of the tyre either. The fresher they are the better they seal. Around a year ago I ripped a 4" tear in a Dunlop AT81, my second AT81 to get a new AWhole ripped in it. Although a great gripping tyre I won't recommend these tyres for for handfuls of HP over jagged rocks, ( my fault ) they were not designed for that kind of abuse. Even with a huge tear in the tyre I easily rode several klm's back to base without damaging the rim. Try that on tubes and there wouldn't be much left of the tyre and at very least, a marred rim.
  2. Tubeless tire sealants

    In my opinion I wouldn't recommend any sealant as your are potentially causing headaches for yourself in long run. Watch the YouTube video on fitment and follow it methodically until you get the knack for these things. Slime and other similar products are fixes for bad fitment and sealant leftovers will accumulate change after change making it harder to keep clean inside the tyre. I have over 30 changes one specific rim with same Tubliss on it and i'm guessing perhaps over 200 changes in all with Tubliss and I have never had to clean the inside of the rim as it remains spotless. When done correctly of coarse. ( spokes remain clean and rust free as some sealants may also promote rust and or oxidation on aluminium ) Regardless you should adjust or rotate your spokes with every tyre change or periodically to ensure they don't seize with time. ( Tip. Don't over tighten the rim locks, the maximum I would go is around 15nm most of the time not even that especially on the front ) It helps the inner HP tube last longer by eliminating the potential pinch point at the tyre rim lock ) Remember the entire system is a rim lock, only requiring the intended specific rim lock when you have the unfortunate situation of poping the rear HP tube on the trail. This is when you get your spanner out and tighten the rim lock firm to get you home. Hope this helps.
  3. Tubliss Tyre Inserts

    Its good and well getting the extra grip, it is tempting to keep them at low psi all the time. But if your ride is fast paced with roots & square edge rocks and you ride a bigger bike with perhaps a bigger then average gut like me, I would recommend a minimum of 10 psi front & rear. Less than this and I recently put some nice dents and pinched the sidewall of the tyre to a flat. I had around 3-4 psi & hit a little buried square edge rock. If you need to take advantage of the low psi then keep a little hand pump with you as someone else mentioned earlier, to inflate a little stability back into the tyre.
  4. Advice Needed

    Hi, enduro oriented bike would be better but sometimes our pocket dictates the outcome. No doubt it will do the job, how well will depend on your skill level. Power is better to have more and ride softly then want more and not have it. Its the old saying. First 10 years of my riding was all mx bikes for the bush, and compared to the current offerings they were crap. ( I started in the 80s, shit im showing my age here. ) There are good and bad points in all models, just remember when it comes to 4 stroke mx oil and filters, frequency is most important, than quality. For your kind of riding. The only down side to this type of bike is radiator size and cooling efficiency as they are not design to be bogged down. It will love you whilst your moving and hate you if get stuck revving it up hills. They are a good strong engine if looked after. ( like anything mostly ) Hope this helped cheers.
  5. Tubliss Tyre Inserts

    Hi guys your Inner HP tube shouldn't lose much pressure if installed correctly. The problem most people have is when they check it they actually let out at around 15-20psi. Just that quick little depression on the valve you make is enough to drop it by 15 - 20 psi. Remember that the tube holds very little volume of air. When inflating these Inner tubes I always fill to 120 psi, as I take the valve off it comes down to around 100-105psi no matter how quick I try to be. I know this as I had extended the valve tube and connected a gauge in between to see what was going on. If you have have issues with air leaking while riding, it will help once you get home take your wheels off, deflate including inner tube and break the bead on the tyre, push it down spray lubricant liberally into the gap on both sides to help seal once again, at the same time while your beads are loose rotate your tyre approx. 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch in either direction before inflating. ( hint: I found the original formula ArmorAll works best when installing these. Never had a sealing issue since using this stuff) Also handy to carry a small tyre plug kit & co2 for when you ride over farmers barbed wire, shows up in the weirdest places
  6. Apt Smart Carb

    Hi guys, I have another interesting product that Iv'e been testing for a while now and would like to share my opinion as I think it deserves some acknowledgement. I certainly do not want or intend for this to come across as a sales pitch and have no affiliation with the maker but if you have a 2 stroke and are always playing around with jetting, then this carby may help. Not most but all of my fellow riders will tell you how anal I am am when it comes to the performance of my bikes, they are never good enough, there is always another mod or tune I must be able to do to achieve my ultimate bliss in satisfaction. I reckon I'll never get there, but the journey keeps me interested. This style of carburettor http://www.powerapt.com/ seems to be a giant leap forward in ease of tuning. I can adjust my tune or needle in less than 30 seconds track side, it has a knob on top were you adjust your needle in clicker like increments via were your cable would normally enter your pwk carb giving you direct access to the needle. The cable has been offset to the front of the slide to allow for this. That's the first great thing, the second is that there is no jets to change, period. Once you establish which ballpark needle you need the rest is history. The needle size you get with it is worked out by the company supplying the carb to suit your bike and or application. Leaner or richer needles can be purchased. The necessity for replacing a needle once you have received the unit would be tested only at full throttle. Being if at full rich clicker adjustment your engine is running lean you purchase one needle richer and vise versa if the engine is still too rich at leanest clicker settings. That's it. Once you have determined this initial test at full throttle your right to go. I haven't had the necessity to change the needle from new as there is such a wide range of adjust-ability on these needles and the manufacturer obviously tries to supply you with a needle to suit your application as mentioned before. When originally purchased the supplier informed me they had done much testing on various engines to know what needles suit each bike. Unless you have some exotic engine you probably won't even have the need to fool around with this. The third and most important advantage to me was that I don't need to make as many adjustments when changing altitudes or temps as It works on a pressurised bowl system. Go to the site for a more detailed explanation on how this works. Basically I invested in this company by pre ordering a carb that wasn't ready for production yet. They needed the numbers to take this to the mass production level. I liked the concept and thought I would take the risk. Well it paid off for me. I've been running it for almost a year now and can I say with confidence it is nothing short of a revelation in 2 stroke performance. I have so much more torque its like riding a new bike. I thought my KTM 380 had plenty torque, but once I slapped this baby in I had I so much more in such little time. All those years in jetting and F*****G around with jets, needles, slides etc, and in one afternoon its running better than it ever has before. Right of the bottom no hesitation with consistent arm ripping pull all the way to top. Crack the throttle at any stage and its just there with no lag whatsoever. And to top it off I use less fuel, not much, but non the less its better mileage. Without going too deep into the workings of this carb, this idea has been around for for many years but had minor short falls that did not suit the mainstream rider. These guys have developed this idea further and have finally achieved an almost injected like feel to the engine, maintaining a good air fuel mixture & atomisation throughout varying air densities. I use AFR (air fuel ratio meter) & ETG (exhast temp meter) to tune most of my engines, and can verify that this carb on my engine does and excellent job in providing consistency. Now there are some cons to this fairytale. This carb is almost twice the weight of 38mm PWK keihin carb and a around 1/2 inch longer through the ports and 1/2 inch taller as it is a billet machined unit so yes it is a tight squeeze. I had to eventually extend my cable by about an inch to accommodate the carb more appropriately. I'm sure it would be safe to assume the new cast mass produced version would be lighter, but that is a question I have not asked. Price for me was $800. This price has now dropped to around $675 for the billet and $375 for the cast version. This might sound pricey but when you factor in all the hours and needles and jets I've spent Its a no brainier for me. Plus the satisfaction of the seat of the pants thrill. And If you have any issues the technical support was superb, fast to reply and very informative and detailed in their response. To be honest the installation guides are quite adequate and anyone with basic mechanical aptitude can successfully install one of these. I would highly recommend this product to anyone whom is in search of something different and perhaps a better way. This review is based on one Billet 40mm APT Smart Carb installed and tested on one 1998 KTM380 SX engine of which has had much modifications done to it already.
  7. Tubliss Tyre Inserts

    Hi guys I've been away for around 2 years but I'm back and I thought Id start with a review. Here goes. TuBliss tube replacements. I've been running these for at nearly 4 years know and I must say they are still the best thing since sliced bread in my opinion. Moose tubes are great too but limit the amount of feel you can get since you cant just deflate them to get that extra bit of traction. I have run these as low as 5 psi to get up gnarly slippery hill climbs and could continue to ride until I had time to stop and pump them up again. No more dented rims either, the inner tube does a great job of supporting the rim. Have never had a flat since running these and I weigh 120kg all geared up, smashing into roots like no tomorrow without any worries. It is a bit of an art to getting them to seal properly, if you watch the tutorial video and follow it carefully you wont have an issue. And as far as tyre selection goes I've tried just about every tyre out their. In my shed at the moment are about 30 different half used tyres. I have yet to find a brand that wont work with these. They were a bit expensive when they first came out at around 100 bucks each but know that will get front and rear. Longevity? well that deepens on how well you look after them when changing tyres. In all this time I bought 2 front and 3 rear. Also, no more crap inside my rims when I remove my tyre. They stay as clean as when I first put the tyre on, regardless of mud, sand, puddles, river crossings they simply keep everything out. Another advantage is they are so much lighter than the extra heavy tubes I used to use in the past, allowing better response from my suspension. And if your unlucky enough to pickup a farmers nail (which is about the only way you would get a flat) you could still get back to the car without stuffing your rim. I've run them flat as an experiment once and the fact that the bead is still held in place by the inner tube has truly been the reason why I never ever carry a spare tube any more. That means less weight again, no spare tube or tools to change it with. I would recommend these for anyone.