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About ohmygewd

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/20/1971

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  • Location
    Out near the Thunderdome
  • Interests
    Anything with two wheels...sometimes four

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  1. I generally look at the hour meter rather than km's...always be wary when the seller says that they had to replace the speedo but don't have an hour meter. Ask the seller where he rides often and what he rides which will give you an indication of what terrain the bike's been in. Like others have said, feel the radiator, cylinder before starting as you want to hear how the bike start from cold, watch what the owner does...hard starting can indicate valves need adjusting, listen for knocks and if it goes away when warm this will likely indicate piston slap - excessive smoke can be an i
  2. Scott dual lenses are the best in the business IMO - use to use them in the snow and dirt!!! But for clarity, as well as ease of changing lenses, Oakley Airbrakes and the prizm lenses are bloody fantastic.....but they fog pretty easily if they aren't tight on the face!! Progear Anti fog or Catcrap are a must during the colder months or drill a few pin holes near the nose and the sides😉
  3. I reckon it's 4k parts and 2k labor. 4k!!!! What do you need, cases as well? FMD, how bad is the motor? Unless you are mechanically minded, have heaps of spare time and absolutely love something about that bike, l agree with the majority in parting out the bike and buying, at least a 2017 and upwards 450 if that's what you desire.
  4. You probably could between the Gasser to the Husky and maybe XC to Husky but l'd say the say the plastics would be unique to each bike?
  5. Hard to imagine and experienced hard enduro rider like Tim Coleman, would suffer from heatstoke that bad that they had to induce him into coma to save his life!!! Maybe he suffered from water intoxication or over hydration but whatever it was, l hope he pulls through and gets on the mend!!!
  6. Hey Geoffro...IP's that providers give out can be misleading depending on where the providers DHCP is located for example, my IP says l'm somewhere in South Yarra when l'm actually in Sydenham :)...if l was using a VPN l could be located anywhere.
  7. Not necessarily...weather conditions plays a big part, Sunday was warmer to example and my mates carb 300 ran like shite he reckons, l turned the airscrew 3/4 turns out (more air) from his base setting and adjusted his idle and he claimed it ran great and wasn't dripping from the pipe when he came back...but that set up in colder conditions will be really lean, revving high and probably pinging its arse off. That's why l bought a TPI😆
  8. Yeah Lance, to be safe, l'd chuck a battery in rather than wire up to the capacitor as the SPAL thermo fan draws somewhere between 24-50 watts , you can use 8000mAH Lipo RC battery but you need to buy the charger as well, l'd suggest buying this instead Ebay SSB Lithium
  9. Motul 800T is a pure racing oil with the emphasis on racing meaning that the oil is designed for high revving bikes or carts, usually running at 30-40:1 (of course jetted properly) or basically you are running 1/2 to WOT/on the main jet 90% of the time. - that's what the high flash point is all about. For riding technical or 80% on the pilot jet, you don't want to run Motul 800T even at 60:1 because the oil never gets burnt off - obvious advantage is that the motor is well lubricated but the biggest disadvantage is that you will gum up the PV, muffler will be caked in oil. Motul 71
  10. Has the bike got a rec/reg from factory? You could hook up a capacitor from the charging system and also put an inline fuse. - use a computer fan as they draw less current than the normal SPAL fans found on most bikes fitted with thermos. If you don't have a rec/reg or the lighting coil is just too weak or don't want to risk damaging the charging system, you could just buy the smallest lithium dirtbike battery, make a bracket up to locate the battery in the airbox somewhere, wire in an in line fuse to a handlebar switch so you can manually turn it on and off or fit a thermo switch (dep
  11. Voltage Reg? Bad earth strap? Problem with lithium battery's is that they can be damaged a lot easier than an acid battery by the slightest over charge. Bad bendix wont necessarily kill the battery as it will either turn over or not engage. Good luck🤞
  12. Yep, my 2019 TPI sees about the same amount of ride time and l've never had to trickle charge it, my bro's Beta with an AGM battery l put a trickle charger over winter when he doesn't ride for around 6-8mths, battery's been good for last 3 years. If the bike isn't being ridden, take the battery out and place on a wooden surface and put a good trickle charger on it, that way there is no chance of parasitic voltage draw - also, cannot stress a quality battery maintainer/trickle charger!! And Donniedarko...a trckle charger is designed to be connected to the battery whilst in the
  13. If you ride your bike often (every 2nd to 1mth even), there is not need for a trickle charger for a quality lithium battery - on cold morning, give a few quick stabs before pressing the button properly. Also, if a 4T's valves are out of adjustment, that will kill a battery pretty quickly, carby 2t's shouldn't kill battery unless badly blocked and the starter is failing and having to draw more current to turn them over (old style KTM starters where like that)!! If you want a really good battery charger/maintainer for lithium's/agm and acid, go the Noco G3500 or Genius 5 as it is a brillian
  14. I guess what l meant to say was compared to my WR360 which was all bottom and mid and then tapered off to a meek top, the KTM380 (circa 98-2k l think)was all mid to top with a weak/meek bottom end power so that's where my MX powerband reference came from, even comparing to the KTM360 vs WR360 l had the same view.