• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

528 Excellent

About ohmygewd

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 01/20/1971

Profile Information

  • Gender
  • Location
    Near Calder Park, Vic
  • Interests
    Anything with two wheels...sometimes four

Recent Profile Visitors

2,023 profile views
  1. 350 riders

    Frank...the huskys have always had linkages since they were taken over in 2014. PDS is grouse over logs and rocks but not as plush as a link...it kicks back
  2. 350 riders

    Hiya Frank, You've seen my 13/14 Berg 350 and that's got 130hrs on with a piston change at 102hrs...the previous owner didn't really take care of it well as the OEM piston should be good for 120hrs (riding singles and rarely wide open). Engine wise, so easy to work on as KTM have put some thought into it like locking the motor up at top dead so you can f#$k up the cam timing, the cam lobs are easy to align - recommend a dirt tricks cam tensioner as the first mod!! I've had issues with the Brembo brake master loosing pressure - easily fixed by tying up the lever to the bar and keeping it pressurised...brakes are super responsive after that. Clutch master is standard brembo (or magura on the later husky's)...same as the Sherco, bleed often and put in a midwest lever for easier pull. Handling is quite good and the compression braking is no where like the 450...probably a little more than your 300. Weight-wise, l would presume the 15-16-17 models the weight would be lighter or feel lighter handling wise compared to my model. Seat height is quite high especially on the PDS bikes. Suspension: I have a PDS and opted to put a progressive spring to take out the harshness in a PDS compared to a link system. Rear shock is quite good and the front Xplor or 4CS really need valving to take the inherent issues out with either forks...I think the 15-16 KTM's still had OC's which are the same as your Sherco? Power wise: They need a bit of twisting to make power and is very prone to flaming out in the tight stuff (maybe the rider) but aside from that, easily can handle long distances in the high country to tight singles and gnarly hills at The Pines even a day out at Rainbow. If you look at the Beta 350's, probably better off with the 15-16 models onwards as they are Fi but l can't comment on the engine, suspension etc...the 300RR l can. Good Luck!!
  3. Husaberg rear brake lock up

    Play around with the rear brake adjuster to give you more travel and feel. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mE9kVN7oOSQ&ab_channel=TokyoOffroad
  4. Pipe guard fitment to FMF Fatty etc

    Well got myself the P-Tech pipe guard, took about 3 weeks to deliver...took 20mins to install!! FMF Fatty to P-Tech pipe guard fitment
  5. Beta 2T Oil Injection Troubleshooting

    Cheers Buzz!!! Wonder how this OI works in the sand ???
  6. Thought l'd chime into a new post rather then use the 2T Oil Injection thread as l'm actually in the process of refitting the OI back into a 2017 300RR and came across a few issues which maybe of some help to Beta riders with the OI. **WARNING - I am not an expert and this should be taken as advice and not a guide *** At this present moment l have the whole thing working and tested using Beta's Oil Injection Guide and help from Raceline but l needed a few parts and gain some knowledge about this system. The system itself is quite good in theory but the issue is how the whole system is connected: TPS from the carb is connected to the ECU which measure the signal per throttle opening. It then passes these signal to the pump via the Diode group which interprets these signals as pulses and other things like the warning light and low oil level. Then there is a condenser which is the actual unit that alters the current of the pump that matches the pulsing signal from the ECU. The weakness in this system is not the actual Dellorto pump (hooray they made something that works) but how the whole system works like it has two regualtors 1) for the bike and 2) for the oil injection (Diode Group and Condenser) - a better design should have been a closed loop system to the OI itself. So, what are the signs of a failing oil injection system: The most common are: Warning light coming on even though the tank is full. Speedo starts flashing, Unusual amount of oil being used causing a rather rich running bike, Rather hot battery. Ok what are the likely causes and fixes: Oil Pump - there is a great manual on how to diagnose OI issues (PM me if you want a copy) and the one l found useful was measuring the connector on the oil pump and it's resistance which should be at 19.5ohms (mine was 17.6ohm vs new one at 19.3). Also, if you connect it straight to a 12V source and by tapping the power like pulses it should pump (empty tank and fill with premix) and not melt the alligator clips wire that l used to test. Air bubbles - if you have large bubbles in the oil line and zip tie the hose at the oil pump then check the pump and inspect Diode group and Condenser (behind LHS rear side plate) Sporadic oil output at any rev range - mostly the Diode group or Condenser. Hot battery - faulty regulator, measure it and if it's over 14.4v, then the regulator is cooked and probably the Diode Group and Condenser. Pump not working at all - Diode group or condenser or both. So how did l get my injection working? Replaced oil pump (Dellorto PLE 8) from Beta @$123. New Diode Group from Beta @$24 - run some silicone where the plastic wrap meets the connector. New Condenser from Beta @$9 - again run some silicone where the plastic wrap meets the connector. Secured these two units along the subframe rather than dangling around. Rerouted the oil pipe and secured to avoid snags. Used an old fuel cap breather on the end of the oil tank breather so it doesn't get blocked. You can also purchase a much better Diode Group and Condenser from Tworide who offers lifetime corrosion guarantee but for the sake of $155 it's easier to replace the two common items (pump is quite sturdy) that fail rather than scratch your head in frustration testing each one. I'm not quite sure but reports from the US Beta guys are that Beta USA are replacing the Diode group and Condenser as warranty items...dunno if Aust is doing the same so if you're a 2018 owner, have a chat to your Beta dealer.
  7. Front brake

    Mount it back onto the bike, place the old pads back in then using a large flat blade screwdriver or tyre lever, push the piston back in.
  8. 2 stroke oil

    You'll find that us motorcyclist tend to stick with one brand or oil certainly 2T riders....if you seized a motor while using say Motul, you'll probably using something different next time around. Personally l love Maxima 927 but for slow technical riding it's a bit of a waste...love the smell tho!!
  9. Correct Gypsy but a full bottom end you pull out all the gears etc so it's good practice to drain the gearbox and inspect for things like a stuff oil seal or impeller seal but also for dirt that may have gotten in there during assembly.
  10. Hmmm..changed the rear springs for my weight and basically started tearing down the Beta to get to know her, you know, what jets are in, wiring harness etc Then l thought l'd put the oil injection back into (that's why l bought it!!) it. And to my surprise (sarcasm), l find these two culripts along with a seized pump:
  11. 2 stroke oil

    Really MKM, any quality synthetic 2T oil (fully synthetic or ester/synthetic) is great. For me it boils down to two options: 1. If you can get to a bike shop, buy the Belrays, Motul 800 or 710's, Maxima, Repsol, Honda, Yamaha even Seadoo synthetic...just not semi-synthetic. 2. Convenience like a supercheap or autobarn - Silkolene Comp 2 and Comp 2 Plus or the good old Castrol TTS . So l chose convenience and have used Silkolene Comp 2 with no issues after tearing down my 300hr+ 360 a few years ago...now l'm back into 2t's back to Silkolene or Amsoil Heck, one of my riding buddies at a pinched used some fully synthetic lawn mower 2T oil from bunnings and didn't harm is 240hr KTM.
  12. Pipe guard fitment to FMF Fatty etc

    So typical Mick!! I got a flat "won't fit" from BB...suppose they are covering there a$$ by insuring it will fit the OEM pipe but jezzus would hurt if these aftermarket manufacturers make allowances for the two dominant pipes on the market - Fatty and Gnarly. Understand if you went with a Dynoport pipe (bloody great pipes), DEP or HGS but not many in Oz have heard of these pipes let alone can source locally. Anyway, went the P-Tech route...if it fits great, if not then l will be swapping a Fatty for an OEM in classifieds section
  13. Pipe guard fitment to FMF Fatty etc

    They do but only for the OEM pipe unfortunately
  14. Pipe guard fitment to FMF Fatty etc

    Cheers Mick!! Might go down the PTech route but the BB's are the prettiest unfortunately they said it won't fit nor make up one that would fit..oh well.
  15. Pipe guard fitment to FMF Fatty etc

    Cheers blokes!! Bikes got a Fatty on it now which looks similar to the OE pipe just eyeballing..might take the punt and the P-tech unit. I like the carbon guards but blowing dents isn't the issue with 2T pipes it's the header section (S bit) that gets slow bent back until it becomes a heater for the water pump which why these pipe guards like force or b&b are appealin