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About walkahz

  • Birthday 07/31/1990


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  1. I'm just about to get myself a new tig or worst case I can do it at work. Distance might be an issue though as I'm in kyneton. Happy to do it though if It works for you!
  2. Mum brought the tank down from NSW so what better time to mock it up for a photo! Still a lot of work to do but can see the light at the end of the tunnel now!
  3. Reassembly continues. Brought some tyres for the newly chromed rims. I've never pinched a tube in my life and I've done it 3 times on each wheel! Fitted up the bars and ran the cables. Front brake one seems to be too short 😡. Took it outside yesterday to wash off 3 years worth of shed dust. Done another parts order from Yamaha for lots of little bits and bolts you don't know you need until you need them. Now for the 4 week wait for the backorder to come in.
  4. Well you convinced me michael. I kept a bleed shim. What I did do though is to make the bleed larger so it didn't flow as much. The mid valve and rebound I ended up leaving as they were as there wasn't enough shims to do much with anyway. Mid valve had 0.5mm float. I bolted it all back together tonight and filled up with oil to 110mm. I also looked inside the outer tubes and found the source of the filthy oil.... worn anodising where the lower clamp is. Pay attention to torque specs everyone this probably occurred in part to over torque of the clamp bolts which makes the tube crush. I will have to hard anodize the outers when I next have it apart and treat her to new bushings and seals.
  5. Thanks bearmx I played around with the clickers a fair bit when I first got it but not a lot since. I get stuck in the trap of just dealing with it. I remember pulling a lot of rebound out to help stop the nose diving and packing down under braking bumps. I have 2 theories around removing the bleed shim. 1 is that it should help the clicker work better and make more positive changes without a continuously open shim stack. And 2 it will help prop up the bike on low speed bumps. Looking at a few beta forums with guys posting up their valving they have done similar (although your good suspension tuner isn't going to go giving away secrets on an internet forum are they!) The top of this picture is the shim stack stock and the bottom is what I'm thinking.
  6. Spring rates assuming they are the stock ones are too soft for my 95kg. I will get around to changing them eventually but no funding prevents that at this point. This is more an experiment to see if I actually notice a difference at all and to see its handling as predicted. Again I could make it all worse than it was!!
  7. Hi all Like many during this forced riding break I have decided to do some maintenance. Now the forks on my bike haven't been serviced for a while so I figured I'd treat them to some fresh oil. While they are apart I can't resist and am going to fiddle with the shim stacks to see what happens. Worst case I have to pull them apart again and put it back to standard. First Job is to strip everything down and clean out the old filthy oil.... not sure its ever been changed in 230 hours. Seals are still good so left them in. After a bit of familiarisation with these particular forks I pulled apart the shim stacks to measure what we've got. I'm not really the best test rider but like many with these early Beta forks I find then to deflect a lot on big hits and rocks. I'm often having the front end bounce off line. They are also soft on the low speed due to my weight. Last issue is the front stays low over jumps causing the bike to land nose first this was mostly corrected with the rebound clickers though. After a bit of reading I have a few things on the compression and mid valves to change. First is I'm changing the compression stack to remove the bleed shim directly against the piston and adding extra shims in the first stage of the stack. This should stiffen the front over rollers and hold the front better under brakes. Because I'm just shuffling shims the shims removed from the 2nd stage to put into the first stage should also have the effect of softening the high speed to help with the deflection On the mid valve I'm going to increase the float a little bit to soften the high speed further again and also soften out the transition from low to high. Of course this is all coming from my head and with no dyno to prove me right or wrong I could just be talking out my backside. If anyone else does their own suspension and would like to chime in I'm all ears!
  8. 4wd Victoria are for the national parks. They have deals with Parks so they get exclusive access by a key system that only member clubs can use thus keeping membership levels high. Dont trust them!
  9. Just saw a press release. Triumph are launching a mx and enduro range. Ricky Carmichael is ambassador. Be interesting to see what they come up with!
  10. Got some shiny parts back from the chromers yesterday. Did the rear wheel then tried to lace up the front..... new spoke nipples too big for the hole. Bugger, not like I had 2 years to check this before chrome. Anyone have any tips for drilling out the rim without damaging the chrome? Only need to enlarge by about 0.2mm
  11. Yep.... They say no impact but you only need to go into a national park to see the number of "management vehicle only" tracks that never get opened. Key example is the current Lerdederg state park and Wombat State Forest. almost All tracks in the state park that aren't though fares are management only with only a handful of harder tracks that actually are open to the public (with seasonal closures) Its not just Wombat either people Cobaw, Mt Cole and others are all going to be affected becoming either "Conservation" Parks or NP.
  12. Not at this stage. Best thing to do is just follow them on facebook. They did a protest before the veac report came out and there was discussion of another one in the coming weeks/months covid pending.
  13. I believe that the BUGU Group will be organising further protests. Might as well piggy back off them, Strength in numbers.
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