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About BearMX

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    West Preston

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  1. Great idea Jman! 2 for the price of one. Makes me think everyone doing a resto should do the same, one sticking to original look and basic structure and one where anything goes to have a bit of non purist creative fun with which you won't be worried about using.
  2. You needed a breather from Ohm's V=IR equation???
  3. The Geomax tyres are really good even if you're not paid to say so. I really like the Dunlop tyres; pity they upped the prices a lot on the last distributor change a couple of years ago though.
  4. Its easy to get it mixed up. Think of it as soft terrain is like a paddle in water, you don't want it bending so its gotta be harder. Hard terrain is like an eraser on paper, you want it soft and sticky to grab and stick to the surface.
  5. No need for fatty for front, bigger is better on the rear. No need for soft compound or trials compound tyres. You generally don't chunk knobs on roads regardless of tyre types. The soft terrain tyres generally wear less on roads than hard terrain tyres. They also are noisier, vibrate more and grip less on the road or hardpack. If you're not doing a lot of bitumen riding like Mark Marquez its not really a big factor in what you'd choose.
  6. Yeah, I'm saying a Soft terrain tyre (as opposed to soft rubber compound) is what I'd go with. Soft terrain is made for sand and mud. They still work in intermediate terrain as well like on the fast trails even if there's harder surfaces. They can light up on hardpack / slick clay when ridden aggressively but not much of that where you're riding. ACUSA should be fine with a soft terrain tyre as well. The outdated M5B and S12 mentioned were both soft terrain tyres. Having said that an intermediate will still work in the sand OK handling wise but will spin more when you're taking off and when riding aggressive. Lots of people run star cross and like them. Pirellis are ok too. I've tried a few tractionator tyres and liked them because they were cheap but they don't grip so well and chunk knobs. I don't use mousse but I'd think for sand riding; the speed / tyre temperature will kill them.
  7. My favourite for general riding and great sand and muddy MX track is the IRC M5B. I used to run the big 140-18 size. I used to get them direct from the distributor but I stopped using them when they changed distributor. IRC has since introduced a new version M5B evo which apparently has softer rubber compound but I haven't tried it. They're a bit pricey now too. When picking a tyre generally soft terrain tyres have harder rubber compound with open pattern / taller knobs and hard terrain has softer rubber compound with close pattern / shorter knobs. Intermediate is in between. For your type of riding I'd be leaning towards a soft terrain tyre. The more open the pattern the more traction from digging in to a soft base like sand or mud. The softer the compound the more traction from hotter rubber sticking on a harder base like clay or rock. The softer compound also wears out quicker and in my experience can chunk knobs easier. As with Andy I liked the original S12 as well.
  8. Found a new one at a good price. Positives are its a Honda, its not a KTM and its all nice and shiny. Negatives are its got a lot of junk on it, it's all round soft and I've got too many bikes already. Struggling to decide which probably means I'm going to pass on it.
  9. Nice one. Bike / rider in the bucket also helps to keep the front end down.
  10. The one that's installed on a tractor?
  11. That's a shame. Pity more people don't rec reg their MX bikes.
  12. Sounds to me like KTM is starting the PR groundwork to phase out 2 strokes.
  13. Great topic. I guess he isn't the original owner, if he was maybe the bike shop could have confirmed. I wonder what bike shops do to check trade ins on MX bikes?
  14. For general off road i like Gypsy's advice. Plenty of tyre flex / contact / traction is an advantage overall and you get more of it with tyre width. For MX, at least for me, its easier to initiate and control rear wheel movement in corners with less width rather than more. The OEM standard tyres can be a compromise and not a good guide as to what's best. They pick them on a balance of cost, weight and performance.
  15. Tyre sizes aren't one standard. The first number is the width. 140, 120 etc are in mm and 4.60, 5.10 etc are in inches. The problem is the measurement is either across the carcass or total knob to knob. So a 120 across the carcass and 140 across the knobs can be the same width. The second number is the profile as a percentage of the width as you have noted and applies regardless of mm or inches. A tyre measured across the knobs will have a smaller profile percentage to equate to the same sidewall height as one measured across the carcass.
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