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  1. Should be good. I recommend making a step by step plan to do some testing with the clickers (front and rear) on a short representative loop that way you'll get a good feel for what's happening without getting sidetracked as you do on a regular ride.
  2. I just reread it, it's 1 25 after the 18 so I get where your coming from in regard to shifting some HS to LS. You're stack is similar to what I ended up with on my MX valved WP on the KTM except I added a bleed (and a crossover; it had neither) and dumped a heap of shims (it had heaps) and added a smaller clamp and washer to let it all open up a fraction more. I ran 3 shims before the crossover and one after like what you've come up with.
  3. Not sure if you've got 2, 3 or 4 25s after the 18. Is the back to back 20s a typo? In any case (and bearing in mind my lack of Sachs experience and feel) I like the bleed shim approach and reckon it supports the transitions with the clicker bleed and shim stack opening. I reckon it'll just be harsher with the loss of it. The third 25 against the piston will stiffen it up across the board, both LS and HS. Do you need it? It might just get you into arm pump territory. If you want to give your stack a go I'd consider adding a 9 after the 12 for the clamp.
  4. Doesn't seem fair to just focus on TPI problems (real or not). There's probably other things that are just as bad or worse. At least KTM has fixed the pumpkin puke colour choice over the years with the introduction of Husky white and Gas Gas red (I especially like the red). Plus the high retail prices scream "I'm special, buy me". I really like the idea of throttle body fuel injection (and hopefully programmable electronic power valve)
  5. I know SFA about Sachs suspension other than its not Japanese. You're the man when it comes to mechanical / engineering work so some food for thought. Had you tried backing off the rebound adjuster when adjusting them? A lot of what you describe is possibly too much rebound (or way too much compression on the rear). Did you get any arm pump with them at all? Did you have any issues with bottoming? Had you made big changes on the shock clickers? I wouldn't remove the bleed shim or add extra low speed shims unless you had to previously improve the feel by dialling in a lot of extra compression with the clickers. I generally like lowering high speed compression for off road and lazy riders (like me). But too light can bottom / deflect on big potholes, braking bumps and logs hit at high speeds (in my case its the ones that you don't see over a crest). I guess as they're apart it'd be good to make some changes but a bit of reflection on the above may help direction.
  6. In my biased big bore loving brain it died because they dropped the 500s.
  7. Unfortunately I never got to go, I was getting into dirtbikes towards the end of Mr MX. What an era, full on series, factory teams, awesome brute 500 2 strokes and some of the best Australian riders ever. Did get to see some footage in the 80s on TV of a couple of great champions; light framed Ray Vanderberg with his incredible raw speed, WOT style and hanging on to and flapping off the back of his flying RM and Jeff Leisk, totally dominant with his cool, calm and in control style on the CR500. I'm jealous of you guys getting to experience it live. I wonder if there's video's available?
  8. Looks fine on chrome on my android phone.
  9. They're perfect if you like powerful rip snorting Jap MX bikes but they're not like the YZ250FX or euro XCs Basically it's the full on MX KX250F with just a 18in rear, a lower geared rear sprocket and a slight change in the engine mapping and suspension damping. The YZ250FX is closer to a stripped down and tuned up WR than the MX YZ250F. A few drops on your head? I'd go the whole hog and get the KX450XC. Go on, you know you want too.
  10. That reminds me, we haven't crossed paths to handover the manual. Something to do after lockdown.
  11. BTW, the trigger coils are separate coils to the stator. On the wiring diagram it looks like there are 2 of them. They are typically small enclosed fine wire coils with high resistance / low peak voltage (on the older model CRFs 0.7 volts compared to the 100 volts that the power coils put out). They are much more prone to failure than the stators power coils. They can't take much heat and they are also very close to the flywheel and may have copped a hit if the engine had a bottom end failure. They are wired to the ECU and not the regulator so you need to measure them at the ECU connector. They're not usually mounted on the stator so if you tried a different stator it might not have included them. If they're a problem I'm not sure why the battery would work; maybe the ECU reads them better when its fully powered? If they're weak and not totally fried (small or intermittent internal short) they might be working with a faster kick or a bit of heat or movement in them.
  12. Electrics are definitely weird. When wires heat up the resistance increases so they don't generally come good with a bit of current or heat through them. But a poor connection can improve with a bit of current or heat through it. Regulators have a number of diodes / components so there are solder joins in them that can also come good with a bit of current / heat through them. I'd try the battery in lieu of the output from the regulator with the capacitor in place. If it works fine it will add to the confidence it's an alternator / regulator issue. (you can also try it again but with disconnecting the battery just before you kick it - it won't run but it may give a fire while the capacitor's still got charge). As far as alternator output goes, there are multimeter's that measure the output and record the peak of the wave so you can check what's coming out of the coils into the regulator on an alternator rotation.
  13. If it starts and runs with the 12 volt battery in lieu of the capacitor then everything is working OK with 12 volts and downstream of the capacitor. So logically its gotta be the supply from the upstream alternator / regulator / capacitor system. You've already checked alternator / capacitor, what about regulator (and the wiring connections along the way to it).
  14. Pampered the DRZ250 - new carbon fibre clutch kit, sintered metal rear brake pads, new air filter, engine oil and filter, greased the rear suspension, rear brake lever and kickstarter all in preparation for the Big Desert ride this weekend. Ate an 8 pack of custard filled chocolate profiteroles after I heard the lockdown was on and the ride was cancelled.
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