BearMX

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About BearMX

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    West Preston

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  1. BearMX

    Hoffs Dissapointment.

    That's awesome!. Great to hear a good news outcome and a bike company and dealer doing the right thing (dare I say for a change?). All kudos to them. I'm glad there action will have you feeling pretty good as well.
  2. BearMX

    Don't fence me in

    I seem to remember that windy uphill road towards big river you took me on didn't have any fences where I (slightly) ran off the edge of the bitumen on the Z1000 coming out of a sweeper trying to catch you on the BMW.
  3. BearMX

    Where to ride in Macedon?

    Whipsticks is easier and is faster more flowing trails. You can also see further ahead for oncoming bikes so can ride on the gas more. If your prepared to travel a great area for 450mx bikes (rec reg definitely required) is Anglesea / Paddy's swamp. As well as the main tracks there's heaps of whooped trails and a bit of sand in spots as well. Traction is better too. With a bit of familiarisation you can string a few trails together to come up with some good 30minute loops and run laps. Great for bike tuning, suspension setup and a bit of fun exercise.
  4. BearMX

    KTM Hydraulic Clutch Issues

    Oh yeah, forgot to mention, be careful of solvents on rubber seals and o rings. Carb cleaner on the master cylinder pushrod seal could have damaged it and your now also getting oil bypassing it. But do 1 step at a time - get the new clutch in first - everything else may still be ok.
  5. BearMX

    KTM Hydraulic Clutch Issues

    The engineer in me says that sorta sounds logical and could be the case but you're forgetting it's a KTM. Withdraw the piston that little bit too far with a couple of mm wear past service limit of the pack and it's not so straightforward.
  6. BearMX

    KTM Hydraulic Clutch Issues

    I don't like the KTM hydraulic clutch design. The crap that collects at the slave cylinder has nowhere to go. It stays there when you flush at the bleeder. Not to mention that moisture / water will collect there (especially if mineral oil is being used). Plus there's limited travel and when the clutch is worn it starts disengaging the clutch even though the plates still have a bit of life in them (when you get your new clutch keep an old 1mm steel plate - it can be used in an emergency to pack out a worn pack on the trail - I've seen a 690 that had one cable tied to the rear of the radiator) On the positive side it is as basic as it gets - a cover with a gasket and a big diameter piston with an O ring piston seal. If you decide to pop it off for a clean at some point it should be easy to do and if the gasket doesn't tear you might be able to reuse it. Don't wash the o ring in solvent or degreaser - wash with warm soapy water, towel dry and give it a bit of time to air dry as well (hair dryer on low heat setting will do it quick), inspect for any tears or cracks. Then soak it in oil for a while before reassembly. (For brake fluid system soak in brake fluid. For mineral oil systems I use auto trans oil for o rings, the hydraulic jack oil is good too).
  7. BearMX

    2002 ktm 2stroke motor

    http://www.ktmonlineparts.com.au/part/ktm/54730000144#partFinderBar 00/01/02/03 250/300/380 cases are all the same part number according to the KTM part numbers. 380s are nice!
  8. BearMX

    2002 ktm 2stroke motor

    Engine cases (and therefore mounting points and clearance) aren't changed often. 250 and 300 are basically the same engines externally. KTM frames aren't changed much year to year either especially the lower engine cradle part. Best guide is to do a part search online (Bolton's or ktm Newcastle is as good as any) for a 250 cc right side engine case for the years of engine you can get and your years bike and see if they're the same. Also check frame part numbers - these could be different for steering head changes but if they're the same its a no brainer swap. Have a good look at the frame schematic and in particular the engine mounts as well.
  9. That's what I'm talking about! Pretty much perfect other than not sending him over the berm (just to make sure). Technically not a pick up pass though - both need to go down and you have to pick up your bike first to make the pass.
  10. That's pretty innocent; I guess my mind went straight to what my intentions would be.
  11. Hmmm, I wonder why you"d ask that Eagle? Barkbusters are banned in MX; they don't like people punting their competition off the track for some reason. Plenty of pick up passes in c grade without them though.
  12. BearMX

    KTM Hydraulic Clutch Issues

    Just looked up the parts list for a 2006 450 EXC (there's no EXE-F?) online http://www.ktmonlineparts.com.au/partFinder/fiche/ktm/2006/450-exc-racing/clutch#ficheZone First 2 metal plate and last 2 metal plates are 1mm thick, the middles 4 are 1.4mm Also shows Loctite on the bolts holding the springs (never seen or done this on Jap bikes or my 350SXF though). Still, KTM's fall apart so probably not a bad idea. With what your doing you'll only be undoing the 6 spring bolts and sliding out the pressure/metal/fibre plates so hopefully you'll get a idea for how simple to do it is.
  13. BearMX

    KTM Hydraulic Clutch Issues

    Make sure you soak the fibre plates in oil overnight, they need to absorb oil through them otherwise you'll burn them out. When you put the new ones in be careful with the metal plates. The first (and sometimes last one as well) are thinner and there may be spring washer as well but I'm not sure about KTM's). These ones are there so the first and last fibre plates run against steel and not the aluminium surfaces of the inner basket and outer pressure plate. If you don't have a manual pull the old plates out one at a time and measure them. On later models the first and last are around 1mm thick and the others are 1.6mm (from memory) and you can tell just by feel and look but you can check them with a ruler (or vernier or micrometer if you've got one). If you get stuck feel free to pop us a pm and I'll give you a run down over the phone). It sounds complicated but if you go step by step it's pretty straightforward and obvious after you've had the heads up. There's Engine parts manuals on KTM.com for download (I couldn't check if it covers your model because their site isn't working for me at the moment) If it's available and you can get in and download at least the engine manual (it's the same exploded view parts manual your dealer looks up spare parts numbers on) it's really handy. If you look at the clutch parts the plates that are a different size will have a different part No and should also have the thickness in the part number and will show where they go in the pack in the exploded view. Check this site as well, there's a downloadable (free) service manual listed for an SX/EXC/XC (don't know if an EXE is one of these though) https://kristofsx.com/ 2000-2007 250/400/450/525 SX/EXC/XC Service Repair Manual
  14. BearMX

    KTM Hydraulic Clutch Issues

    I'm no guru on KTM's and the KTM clutches are a bit, well, odd. Caught air in the line does make it's way out with use so it's more forgiving than air in the brake lines. If you've ridden it a bit and the levels not low it's probably not your root cause but no harm in giving it another bleed. After overheating the fluid can boil if it's old and has drawn a bit of moisture into it over time.. A fair bit of the old fluid stays in the bore in the crankcase when you flush it from the bleeder up to the master cylinder. If it's a problem cold it's probably not your root cause but no harm in giving it another flush again. There may be leakage at the slave cylinder end - this could be the cause but it would take a bit of use to show up and you'd see a lowering of the fluid level in the master cylinder. If this is the case it needs a service. Btw you won't see a fluid leak because it's likely the fluid will be pushed into the gearbox. The funny action sounds like its sticking in the slave cylinder end (the crankcase bore end). The clutch plates are very thin and I don't think there's much travel in the system. In doesn't take much wear in the plates to get the pushrod in a position that the slave end doesn't like and starts sticking. Sounds to me like your plate stack is now under the service limit. It's really easy to pop the clutch out and measure it; doesn't need a lot of technical knowhow and i'm sure there'll be youtube videos to show it. Once out measure the full pack width (metal and fibre plates) and check it against the spec (not sure if the KTM owners manual will show the spec but it will be in the workshop manual - your local dealer may be able to advise it).
  15. BearMX

    Hoffs Dissapointment.

    Soooo frustrating for you! Why do they do it? If they don't want to back their products they should either build em right or do something else preferably something that has nothing to do with motorcycles. Hopefully they'll surprise with a higher level of enthusiasm once they've had a look and a chance to mull it over. I've had bikes last decades of racing and riding on them without any problems of loose crankcase bolts. If it's not common problem your fix sounds like it'll do. If it's a 6mm thread you've got a 1mm pitch so your getting 4 to 5 threads of depth for the hold (I generally consider 4 threads is the minimum for load strength) and the loctite will stop it loosening. If the loosening is a common problem (if it is it sounds like they're not going to tell you) I'd consider wiring it as well if it's not to hard to get to.