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About Chris390

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  • Birthday 12/02/1981

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  1. Great work Ben [emoji106]
  2. Does anyone know what the 17, 18, 19, 20 front axle sizes are? Part number 79109081033 I am possibly looking at getting a new bike, but want to use the old (New) wheels off the current bike for reasons, the rear is a straight swap but the front has the 26mm front axle....
  3. Does anyone know what the 17, 18, 19, 20 front axle sizes are? Part number 79109081033 I am possibly looking at getting a new bike, but want to use the old (New) wheels off the current bike for reasons, the rear is a straight swap but the front has the 26mm front axle....
  4. Small addition to the frame today, but something is better than nothing!!
  5. Hey all, sorry for the old thread revival, but i finally got some progress to show!! I finally got all my engine parts together and the engine is in a state where i cant do anymore until i get some of he chassis parts ready, but it is together to a running stage (after i replace the rimlock nuts i used to keep the head on to the proper head nuts...) and has also been coated/cerakote, so will keep its finish!! the other thing that i finally have done is the frame. After realizing the frame i had was damaged & repaired, i put off doing anything for a while. Luckily, while i was deciding what to do (being slack) i found another frame in N.S.W. that someone was selling for $100 - a bargain and hard to find in Australia!!! My cousin happened to be doing a job near where the frame was so he bought it back and it was pretty average condition , but it was straight (forgot to take any photos. Repaired the coil bracket, and started cleaning & sanding it. After 3 days of paint stripper & sanding, i cracked the sads and took it to get blasted & powder coated. finally got it back today, and it looks like new!!! Next on the agenda is triples & forks, rear suspension, make a wiring loom & some of the panel work, hopefully I will have more frequent updates, but money is the main thing slowing everything down...
  6. The clutch housing and shock body came up a treat [emoji106]
  7. I had a motow on the back of a triton tray, with the tow hitch under the tray. The factory "light duty" towbar was too far back and the peg on the bike folded up and sat against the tray, but the factory "heavy duty" towbar which sits a bit more forward, but still under the tray(had 2 ute that I could swap out the towbars) worked perfectly, didn't have any issues with anything fouling...
  8. We sell them (not the kits unfortunately, just the provent cans and the replacement elements) but have fitter to mn tritons and a kit to an new ford ranger (genuine provent, proper fitting kit) and they aren't hard to install at all, and especially with the tritons that I have come across, they suffer from breather and egr mixing to restrict the inlet and also the boost sensor to throw codes and put into limp mode. I reckon they are one thing that should be fitted to any diesel
  9. Just read through your resto, great write up, looking forward to see the next steps!!
  10. Depends on the tyres, but I found between 6-8 psi in the rear and 8-10 psi in the front worked for me on starcross 5's
  11. It has loops on the drawbar for the pegs, i just used d shackles and turnbuckles I still use tie downs on the front, but they arent really needed with the setup i have....i just like the extra security!!
  12. When i was looking into it, there are a lot of ones out there (ballards, motow, rack and roll, etc.) I was going to get the ballards, but when i went to get them they were out of stock, and the extra to get the lights, anti sway jigger and ramp also put me off I didnt trust the "cheaper" ones, after all if it fails then its not only your bike that could be stuffed, but every other person on the road near you too!! (They all probably use the same/similar steel anyway, but still had the same thought on them) I liked the rack and roll, and there was another too but they were way out of the price range.... I ended up getting a motow, and intalling my own lights and turnbuckles/d shaclkes/caribeeners/chains (i think all the lower cost ones these are needed and extra expense)on it. One of the only things i would suggest is replacing the bolts the supply with higher grade ones - they use a 4.4 grade and i had one snap tightening the nut/bolt
  13. Sorry for the lack of updates, had a few issues with parts and trying to find them. Finally got the top end on, sent off The side cover for water blasting and the generator is getting rewound and that should be most of the motor done (carby is still a bit on an unknown, may or may not be usable) Starting to concerntrate on the frame, once that is done i can start on the tin work and forks, which is the bulk of the bike
  14. Which bike is it? Most cable clutches i have dealt with have adjustment at the perch and/or down on cable mounting on the engine. May need a cable if have no adjustment left or stretched too much If its a hydraulic setup, bleed the system and go from that. If that doesnt work look at rebuilding the master cylinder, then the slave if that still doesnt fix it All else fails, put new clutch plates in
  15. Saw similar in neerim car park (may have been the same guy) that when they flipped the bike smashed up their new looking carbon akro pipe and tail section....looked like an expensive error...
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