After fixing up 2 TE449's I picked up a 2011 SMR511 with a blown engine in early December. It ran however the big end was making loud noises and there were metal filings in the oil screens.
about 2mm of play in the conrod bearing...
This won't buff out.
I was worried about having to get the cylinder replated. I wasn't sure whether it was deposited aluminium from the piston or scoring of the cylinder wall.
It turns out that Nikasil is much harder than hardened steel fragments! The cylinder came up perfect after a professional diamond hone. It was still standard sizing even after 15,000km. Thanks to the guys at Electrosil in Greensborough, VIC.
After tearing everything down the list of parts needing replacement is:
New Crankshaft/conrod assembly - OEM 8531521
New Piston - ProX
New crank bearings (OEM part# 8520265 is $100Euro. The exact same bearing is used in later models and the KTM part# 77330082200 is only $44Euro)
LHS balance shaft bearing (sealed unit but notchy so it's getting replaced) - local bearing shop
Gear selector lever - OEM
New exhaust valves (they were covered in carbon on the facing and badly pitted - OEM
New inlet valves (they looked OK but at $50 each I thought I'll change them now rather than later. - OEM
New valve stem oil seals - OEM
Engine and top end gasket set - Athena
New taillight (sourced from SWM as NLA from Husqvarna)
New Headlight (burnt from PO using a 60W halogen bulb) OEM
New shims for valves to set correct clearances - OEM
New rear sprocket bolts (4 were loose) - local bike shop
New chain sliders, chain, brake pads - OEM
New wheel bearings and seals - local bearing shop
Special Husky puller and adaptors to remove flywheel, oil pump gear and for gearbox gear removal/install - OEM
The flywheel needed heat and an impact wrench to break it loose!
Valve seal removal/install tool set. REQUIRED. Those little bastards do not want to come off with ordinary pliers.
Work to do on the engine:
Fabricate crank bearing inner race heating clamp
Install outer engine bearings
Measure crank axial play, install shims to suit and fit bearing inner races to crank
Install new balance shaft bearing
Install balance shaft and crank
Have cylinder diamond honed and checked for damage
Reassemble engine, cylinder and head
Install engine in frame then put all the other bits back on the bike (airbox, throttle body, subframe)
Work done outside of the engine:
Check and regrease swingarm, linkage and headstem bearings
Tightened loose spokes
Check all wiring and switches for correct function
Serviced front forks
Serviced starter motor
Flush and replace clutch and brake fluids
Check your sprocket bolts regularly. If they come loose, replace them...
I needed to fabricate a bearing heater/removal clamp for the crank bearings.
A clean and a bit of light oil on the bearing and into the ring and 200 deg Celsius of heat applied. It worked a treat!
Then put the cases together and check the axial play. It needed 1 x 0.15 shim to give the correct axial clearance of 0.3-0.5mm.
Onto the old crank inspection to survey the conrod damage. I pressed the crank apart in a 50 ton press. The crank pin had minor galling but the needle rollers and conrod were absolutely stuffed. Interestingly, when I did the rebuild on my noisy TE300 2 stroke big end, the crankpin wore out rather than the conrod or bearing. The crankpin on the SMR511 is part of the crankshaft yoke on one side and like the conrod, not replaceable so I'm replacing the whole crankshaft and conrod as one assembly.
What's left of the conrod bearing
and a totally shagged conrod...
The exhaust valves were coated in carbon (including the valve seat area) and badly pitted. The cause was worn valve stem seals letting too much oil run run down the valve stem and onto the valve seat.
Drained all fluids and gave the bike an initial clean
Checked and re-greased the swingarm and linkage bearings - grease was clean, seals were good and no rusty bearings
Rerouted speedo wiring to the correct path to the right and behind the fork leg
Replaced swingarm chain slider
Replaced loose rear sprocket bolts
Replaced front and rear wheel bearings and seals
Replaced brake pads front and rear
Greased rear brake calliper slides
Reseated leaking spoke o'ring on rear wheel
Tightened loose spokes and trued both wheels
Cleaned and regreased headstem bearings
Serviced front forks with a strip down, clean and refill with fresh oil. Right leg was good. Left leg had some brake dust contamination in the oil
Serviced starter motor - all good
Flush and bleed clutch and brake fluids
Full engine strip down, clean and check for secondary damage. The damage was limited to the conrod, piston skirts, score marks on the cylinder walls and burrs on the oil pump rotors. The oil flows in the following order: screens, pumps, oil filter then the oil galleries. The oil filter did it's job and prevented any contamination causing further damage.
Polished oil pump rotors to remove small burrs from metal filings
Replaced crankshaft/conrod assembly and worn crank bearings
Shimmed crankshaft bearings to the correct axial clearance
Replaced worn RHS balance shaft bearing as it was notchy
All other engine bearings were within tolerance
Replaced piston and rings (standard size)
Replaced gear selector fork (worn and not selecting gears)
Checked shift drum and shift forks for wear - all within limits
Had cylinder diamond honed and checked for straightness
Cleaned carbon from cylinder head and inspected valves and valve seats. Valve seats clean and shiny and within wear limits. Exhaust valves were black and pitted. Inlet valves are fine however I will replace them now anyway.
Replaced valves and valve oil seals
Adjusted valve shims to achieve correct clearances
Replaced burnt headlight assembly and fitted original spec bulb
Replaced retaining circlips on oil and water pumps as they had stretched when removed
Reassembled engine. All bearings and friction surfaces were coated with Maxima Assembly Grease to protect them on initial startup.
Turned engine over by hand a few times to check valve to piston clearance was ok and timing marks still lined up plus cam chain tension.
Installed engine into frame
Reinstalled throttle body, airbox, lower fuel tank and subframe
Reinstalled wiring loom around airbox and fuel tank and plugged in electrical connectors
Reinstalled radiators and hoses
Connect ECU to TuneECU and check all sensor readings are within range
Filled with fuel, oil (1150ml) and coolant
Removed sparkplug and unplugged the coil pack.
Ran starter motor for 10 seconds 3 times to allow the oil pumps to prime the oil galleries and lubricate all the bearings with oil
Install spark plug and connect coil pack
Engine started after a few revolutions. Let engine idle and get up to temperature until the cooling fan turned on. Gave engine a few rev's up to only 5000rpm then turned it off and let it cool down. Did this heat cycling 3 times.
Will check the oil screens and sump plug for any debris and change the engine oil and filter after 100km.
So after 2 months the bike is nearly complete and back to as-new condition. Im waiting on a genuine taillight from SMW then it's time for a RWC, rego then go for a ride!