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Phil66

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About Phil66

  • Birthday 10/27/1966

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    Mornington Peninsula

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  1. In that case just order an "A" size kit (piston, rings, gudgeon pin, needle bearing, o'rings, and gaskets).
  2. Check the part number stamped on the OEM piston. It will tell you the current size. Ideally you need a dial bore gauge to measure the wear. If unsure, use an A piston and measure the ring end gap to ensure it is in spec. The Nikasil coating is VERY hard so it's unlikely to need an oversize piston after 100 hours. As mentioned above, Give Dave a call at https://www.twostrokeperformance.com.au for rebuild kits.
  3. Use a hex bit with 8mm socket in a drill and spin the bolt until the plastic is warm enough to pull the bolt and nut out. Then separate the nut and bolt in a vice. Use some copper antiseize paste on the bolt and check the thread is clean. Then use a little JB Weld in the hole and force the nut back into the tank. Let the glue set for 24 hours then reassemble. I’ve used this technique many times. The plastic is pretty thick around the nut so you won’t cause a leak.
  4. I saw that however the adventure spec website is not around anymore.
  5. Hi all, I'm reading Grimbo's (Graham Jarvis) book "Conquering the Iron Giant" at the moment. He mentions a 2 disk set DVD titled "Erzberg the Hard Way". Disk 1 is tips & techniques and Disk 2 is complete footage from an Erzberg event. I've searched online and it doesn't seem to be available anymore. Does anybody have a copy they want to sell or know where to buy it? Cheers, Phil
  6. Happy to contribute toward the running of this great forum. Donated just now.
  7. 100% agree with Geoffro. I've led quite a few rides and had guys not turn up, not answering concerned calls of "where are you/are you ok?" or even comprehend why I was pissed at them for the poor communication/etiquette. They never ride with me again.
  8. Thanks Olly, I had the workshop manual and parts diagrams which helped. I used a bunch of cheap storage trays to keep the parts in order and labelled each one so I knew how to put the parts back in the right place. No parts left over!
  9. After fixing up 2 TE449's I picked up a 2011 SMR511 with a blown engine in early December. It ran however the big end was making loud noises and there were metal filings in the oil screens. about 2mm of play in the conrod bearing... This won't buff out. I was worried about having to get the cylinder replated. I wasn't sure whether it was deposited aluminium from the piston or scoring of the cylinder wall. It turns out that Nikasil is much harder than hardened steel fragments! The cylinder came up perfect after a professional diamond hone. It was still standard sizing even after 15,000km. Thanks to the guys at Electrosil in Greensborough, VIC. After tearing everything down the list of parts needing replacement is: New Crankshaft/conrod assembly - OEM 8531521 New Piston - ProX New crank bearings (OEM part# 8520265 is $100Euro. The exact same bearing is used in later models and the KTM part# 77330082200 is only $44Euro) LHS balance shaft bearing (sealed unit but notchy so it's getting replaced) - local bearing shop Gear selector lever - OEM New exhaust valves (they were covered in carbon on the facing and badly pitted - OEM New inlet valves (they looked OK but at $50 each I thought I'll change them now rather than later. - OEM New valve stem oil seals - OEM Engine and top end gasket set - Athena New taillight (sourced from SWM as NLA from Husqvarna) New Headlight (burnt from PO using a 60W halogen bulb) OEM New shims for valves to set correct clearances - OEM New rear sprocket bolts (4 were loose) - local bike shop New chain sliders, chain, brake pads - OEM New wheel bearings and seals - local bearing shop Tools required: Special Husky puller and adaptors to remove flywheel, oil pump gear and for gearbox gear removal/install - OEM The flywheel needed heat and an impact wrench to break it loose! Valve seal removal/install tool set. REQUIRED. Those little bastards do not want to come off with ordinary pliers. Work to do on the engine: Fabricate crank bearing inner race heating clamp Install outer engine bearings Measure crank axial play, install shims to suit and fit bearing inner races to crank Install new balance shaft bearing Install balance shaft and crank Have cylinder diamond honed and checked for damage Reassemble engine, cylinder and head Install engine in frame then put all the other bits back on the bike (airbox, throttle body, subframe) Work done outside of the engine: Check and regrease swingarm, linkage and headstem bearings Tightened loose spokes Check all wiring and switches for correct function Serviced front forks Serviced starter motor Flush and replace clutch and brake fluids Check your sprocket bolts regularly. If they come loose, replace them... I needed to fabricate a bearing heater/removal clamp for the crank bearings. A clean and a bit of light oil on the bearing and into the ring and 200 deg Celsius of heat applied. It worked a treat! Then put the cases together and check the axial play. It needed 1 x 0.15 shim to give the correct axial clearance of 0.3-0.5mm. Onto the old crank inspection to survey the conrod damage. I pressed the crank apart in a 50 ton press. The crank pin had minor galling but the needle rollers and conrod were absolutely stuffed. Interestingly, when I did the rebuild on my noisy TE300 2 stroke big end, the crankpin wore out rather than the conrod or bearing. The crankpin on the SMR511 is part of the crankshaft yoke on one side and like the conrod, not replaceable so I'm replacing the whole crankshaft and conrod as one assembly. Crankpin What's left of the conrod bearing and a totally shagged conrod... The exhaust valves were coated in carbon (including the valve seat area) and badly pitted. The cause was worn valve stem seals letting too much oil run run down the valve stem and onto the valve seat. Work doneChassis Drained all fluids and gave the bike an initial clean Checked and re-greased the swingarm and linkage bearings - grease was clean, seals were good and no rusty bearings Rerouted speedo wiring to the correct path to the right and behind the fork leg Replaced swingarm chain slider Replaced chain Replaced loose rear sprocket bolts Replaced front and rear wheel bearings and seals Replaced brake pads front and rear Greased rear brake calliper slides Reseated leaking spoke o'ring on rear wheel Tightened loose spokes and trued both wheels Cleaned and regreased headstem bearings Serviced front forks with a strip down, clean and refill with fresh oil. Right leg was good. Left leg had some brake dust contamination in the oil Serviced starter motor - all good Flush and bleed clutch and brake fluids Engine Full engine strip down, clean and check for secondary damage. The damage was limited to the conrod, piston skirts, score marks on the cylinder walls and burrs on the oil pump rotors. The oil flows in the following order: screens, pumps, oil filter then the oil galleries. The oil filter did it's job and prevented any contamination causing further damage. Polished oil pump rotors to remove small burrs from metal filings Replaced crankshaft/conrod assembly and worn crank bearings Shimmed crankshaft bearings to the correct axial clearance Replaced worn RHS balance shaft bearing as it was notchy All other engine bearings were within tolerance Replaced piston and rings (standard size) Replaced gear selector fork (worn and not selecting gears) Checked shift drum and shift forks for wear - all within limits Had cylinder diamond honed and checked for straightness Cleaned carbon from cylinder head and inspected valves and valve seats. Valve seats clean and shiny and within wear limits. Exhaust valves were black and pitted. Inlet valves are fine however I will replace them now anyway. Replaced valves and valve oil seals Adjusted valve shims to achieve correct clearances Replaced burnt headlight assembly and fitted original spec bulb Replaced retaining circlips on oil and water pumps as they had stretched when removed Reassembled engine. All bearings and friction surfaces were coated with Maxima Assembly Grease to protect them on initial startup. Turned engine over by hand a few times to check valve to piston clearance was ok and timing marks still lined up plus cam chain tension. Installed engine into frame Reinstalled throttle body, airbox, lower fuel tank and subframe Reinstalled wiring loom around airbox and fuel tank and plugged in electrical connectors Reinstalled radiators and hoses Reinstalled exhaust Connect ECU to TuneECU and check all sensor readings are within range Filled with fuel, oil (1150ml) and coolant Startup Removed sparkplug and unplugged the coil pack. Ran starter motor for 10 seconds 3 times to allow the oil pumps to prime the oil galleries and lubricate all the bearings with oil Install spark plug and connect coil pack Engine started after a few revolutions. Let engine idle and get up to temperature until the cooling fan turned on. Gave engine a few rev's up to only 5000rpm then turned it off and let it cool down. Did this heat cycling 3 times. Will check the oil screens and sump plug for any debris and change the engine oil and filter after 100km. So after 2 months the bike is nearly complete and back to as-new condition. Im waiting on a genuine taillight from SMW then it's time for a RWC, rego then go for a ride!
  10. Great video Bruce! Thanks for sharing. I loved the ooh's, ah's and "woah woah woah" commentary.
  11. What a cracker of a day! The anticipation for my first ride out of lockdown was at an all time high. I was awake at 3:40am, 4:30am and 5:05am, shit scared that my alarm wouldn't work and I would be running late. I jumped out of bed at 5:15am and got ready for my first Level 3 ride since March. I had managed to squeeze in two rides in June at Neerim but they were level 2 and had about a dozen blokes tagging along. I picked up Brad and headed for Yarra Glen to meet up with the other guys. The six of us arrived around 8:15am at the unload point and geared up. We were in for a warm day of 27 degrees with known tracks in unknown condition. We started off at 9am heading along the fire trails up to a ridge line before dropping in to some more technical sections. As we regrouped, I noticed Bruce's rear brake smoking. The return spring had fallen off and the lever was both dragging and loose so we tightened it up and poured some water on the caliper to cool it down. Rear brake fixed. There was a LOT of branches and logs down on the tracks. It made it fun but challenging as a few of us were not ride fit (thanks to lockdown). We let Brad take a breather or take a shortcut whilst we did some fun hills and tracks then met up again for lunch at the top of a big hill. Bruce's front brake perch had come loose so out with the tools again and we were on our way. My starter relay was intermittent (only a few rides old) so I got to use the kicker a few times. A welcome bit of exercise for my right leg. The e-starter started working again later on which made me happy. The tracks were mostly in great condition and well used. Some lucky guys are riding more regularly than most of us. We did some tracks that were log infested and needed bikes lifted over or under them. Brad then bailed early and headed back to the car early to relax with a cool beverage under the shade awning of my ute. We then rode some "High Country style" cruisy ridge lines and big hills to cool off and get out of 2nd gear for a while. Lot's of rear brake sliding, erosion mound jumping, powersliding and saying to oneself: jeez it's good to get out again How's the serenity look at the view! look at the track!!!! shit that was close oohhhhh crap oh shit - wallaby! woo hoo! don't touch the front brake..... oh shit - wallaby! After 30 minutes of this 6th gear racing bullshit we dropped into some more interesting terrain with more twisty trails, logs, rocks and ruts. At the top of a nice winding uphill track Peter said that his front sprocket was missing a number of the required teeth (actually all of them). Righto - We need to go downhill back to the main roads and transport back to the cars. We had done about 65km at this point and rode along the powerlines back to the cars arriving at 3:30pm. Heath, Bruce and Matt wanted more so they topped up their fuel and water and did another 45 minutes of trails whilst Peter, Brad and I enjoyed a cold Gatorade from the car fridge and loaded up. All up I did 80km for the day and drove home with a big smile and a sore body. It's great to be able to ride, laugh and catch-up with like minded guys again. Here's a few pics from the day. I do have some GoPro footage to put together when I get some time. The crew Habs showing how it's done. I ran out of talent quite a lot.
  12. I would check the 12V supply on the starter motor post and it's ground with a multimeter. That will tell you if it's getting 12V. If so, it could be a worn/stuck armature brush not making contact. It's hard to tell what is from the video - it sounds like something is loose. Does the bike start if you kick it or push start it? That should rule out other electrical issues.
  13. Looks mint! Job well done.
  14. Soooooo good to watch the Gold class riders in action.
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